Located alongside the 101 in Mendocino County, this area may be quite north of the Jenner climbing areas, but in terms of commute time from the bay area, The Squaw Cliff area is just as close as many of the climbing areas around Jenner.
Next to the Russian River, and just North of the town of Cloverdale, The Squaw Cliffs offer some excellent bouldering opportunities, and also a few show lead climbs in the shadow of a large 400 foot cliff, known as Squaw Rock.
Most apporaches are under 2 minutes, so you're always going to be close to the car, but unfourtunately, you're always going to get some highway traffic as well. Additionally (and unfourtunately), some approaches will also require you to ford the river, which can be an interesting and exciting proposal.
Getting There
From the Bay Area:
Head North on the 101 past Santa Rosa, and past the small town of Cloverdale. The main cliff is located in plain view of the highway on the left side, and is the first huge cliff you run inot north of San Francisco. The main pullouts are on either side of the Korean War Veterans Memorial Bridge, which runs alongside the cliff. The Northern pullout is 5.1 miles from the exit to the 128, which is on the North side of Cloverdale, just inside the Mendocino county border.
Aron neglected to mention that most of the rock in the area is somewhat suspect. The first three bouldering problems we worked on ended when someone broke a key hold. Lots of holds will brake. Bring a spotter.
the climbing is no where near the area of chossy cliff shown in the picture. and yes there is a lot of crumbly rock here but there is also a lot of great solid rock as well - all the climbs and boulder problems are on quality schist (and greenstone?) - you just have to find them..
Squaw Cliff Area
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