This slightly overhung 5.9 makes an excellent warmup route, if you're planning on doing many other climbs on the Shipwreck Wall (seeing as how they're mostly 5.12s).
To find this climb, look just to the right of the flake chimney at the left side of Shipwreck Wall. Follow the bolt line following the climb about 20' shorter than any nearby.
By Aron Quiter Administrator From: Berkeley, CA May 7, 2004 rating: 5.9
Jared's description is a little deceptive:The first bolt of this climb is actually a staple (ring?) about 20 feet off the ground, and the staples of the route are the easiest way to indentify the route. If you want protection before this, bring a sling and clip into the first bolt of Yardarm (5.12b) that is just left of this route, though probably the best way to start the route anyways.
Alright, so, I believe in my heart of hearts that this route is solid 10a.This rating has gone on in many discussions and yes the overall the holds are good but the moves require some long reaches and open hands and a little more technique than a 5.9 rating would yield. Specifically the moves just after the 2nd bolt( if you count,and you should, the bolt for conquistador and yardarm.Safer)and the top just before the last bolt. With that said this route kicks ass. Theres my 2 cents.
By Zeke From: San Francisco Aug 20, 2006 rating: 5.10+
This is definitely harder than 5.9. I'd like to see a 5.9 leader send this, anyway. The crux after the second bolt, as Whipp says, is more technical and reachy than you'd expect of the grade. Wish I knew some more serious climbers who frequent this area. None of my Bay Area climbing buddies have been willing to make the trip.
Agree that it's 5.10 something. Staples? They are fat titanium glue-ins. Was with Jordy when they were installed. Sweet for salt water environs. I'll venture to add another star to the rating, comparative to N. Coast climbs only. Stop and say HEY in Bodega.
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