Hidden amongst the trees deceptively close to the parking lot lies a couple of moderately large cliffs that contain good, but scary highball bouldering on often less than desirable landings. This is the North Rock.
The North Rock contains 15 - 35 foot high bouldering (yes, that's correct... a 35' bouldering area) from V0 to V3, on landings that are better than the South rock. At least it's flat down here. Most of the hard problems throw cruxes at you about 20 feet off the ground over a slab. Bring an army for spotters. The Sandstone and Schist of the North Rock has good spots, though the Schist sectiosn leave some spots (on the traverse in particular) loose a flakey.
The V1 highball Jugular is an excellent route, and ascends the second rightmost arete on excellent Castle Rock - like sandstone.
This rock is always in the shade, but watch out for Poison Oak around the base, especially if you're going to attempt to check out the taller sandstone cliffs to the left of established bouldering. Eventually someone could probably turn the left undeveloped rocks into a great top rope or easy lead area.
All routes walk off the top, which is right in front of the South Rock.
Getting There
Approach time: 4 minutes.
From the second northmost parking lot: Follow the sign west out of the parking lot for the bluffs trail. Walk about 50 yards, where you will pick up the bluffs trail heading South (left). Walk along the trail about 200 yards past a bridge that passes over the creek, and you'll see the North Rock in the foreground, and the south rock in the background and uphill.
Pick up the climbers trail heading left from the bluffs trail as the trail gets close to the North Rock, and you're there!
It's also possible to pick up the Bluffs Trail from the South.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Fisk Mill Cove Bouldering: North Rock:
This route ascends the second most arete to the right on the wall, which is just left of the first cave. Climb up a juggy climb with hidden but excellent surprises on the way, as you ascend to a top out that's quite high, but completely secure. Enjoy!...[more]Browse More Classics in CA
I hate to be the spoiler, but please note that park rangers are not psyched on rock climbing at this site. As a ranger ranted at me... "You guys (climbers) did major defoliation at a site which is (apparently) a sacred native american site." Please be respectful and consider a different location to climb on the coast.
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