Salt Point State Park

Description 

Salt Point offers incredible, tough climbing at a very beautiful, isolated beach or forest settings north of Jenner.

There are over 20 routes (nearly all sport, along with a 5.7 crack), and over 30 boulder problems as of 3/4/2005, with more being developed. While a good portion of the routes are 5.12 and up, the easier routes are worth the trip (Captain Hook, at 5.10a, is an instant classic). The area is pretty new.

The developed sport climbing at the cove is all located on a crag called Sentinel Rock. This area is sandstone - though a tougher version than that found at other Bay Area sandstone areas. Some parts are a little crumbly, and the holds are occasionally pretty sharp on the hands.

The developed and developing bouldering is all around the park, mostly to the southeast of the parking lot and could eventually yield as many problems as castle rock, though in more secluded setings. Excellent boulders with unique sandstone texture and some shitty landings.

Access to the rock is a non-issue, except in one respect - watch the tides! At high tide or high surf, the Treasure Chest wall will get waves that could soak you and your gear if not drag you out to sea entirely. Watch out for sleeper waves when the belay slab is dry! Avoid high tide there, and use caution to keep you and your pack high and dry.

Getting There 

Salt Point is located up Hwy 1 from Jenner Beach. The drive is probably at least 2 hours from anywhere south of Marin county.

From the Bay Area, get on 101N until the Hwy 116E Napa/Sonoma exit (in Petaluma).Turn right off the exit onto Lakeville/Hwy 116 heading west. Turn left 1 mile later onto E. Washington St. Follow E. Washington as it becomes Bodega Ave and later Valley Ford Rd, which intersects Hwy 1. Go north on Hwy 1. Fisk Mill Cove is 23 miles north of the intersection of Hwy 116 and Hwy 1.

For Senital Rock, Turn left off the highway at the Fisk Mill Cove sign (it's easily visible from the highway) into a parking lot. Continue west to the second parking lot; a trail leads down to the rock from the far end of this lot.

For Shroomland and other rocks not accessed via the main parking lot:

Park Southeast of the main parking lot at a pullout on the West side of the road at mile marker 42.

Featured Route For Salt Point State Park

Captain Hook 5.10a R  CA : SF Bay Area : Salt Point State Park

This route is FUN FUN FUN, and unique!This route begins on the arete on the left side of the Treasure Chest area, and is the second bolt line from the left. Climb up the left face of the arete - holds around the arete are on route as well - and into the strange roof-chimney. Climb out of the chimney and up on the right side of the slightly overhung face above it.I may be a little overly cautious giving this route the 's' rating, but climbing ab...[more]