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Black Dagger, The 
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Direct Route 

5.7 X

   

FA: Whitmar & Hammack Dec. 1953
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.7 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 80 feet
Season: dry
Views: 20 page views

Submitted By: Brian in SLC on Nov 6, 2009


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Climbing the Direct Route.


Description 

A great route, but, no beginner lead and quite possibly x-rated (R+ in the guidebook). Blowing it to the first and/or second bolt would have severe consequences.

That said, fun climbing. Classic Pinnacles.

Lean over, start up the committing moves to the first bolt, and keep a darn cool head. Or, TR it by climbing another route to the summit plateau.


Location 

Starts on the pedestal just north of Lunch Rock. Rappel route from anchor bolts on the SE corner of the summit boulder.


Protection 

4 very well spaced lead bolts. Scary!

Makes sense that some semblance of belay anchor take place as a fall prior to the first bolt would have dire consequences for both the leader and belayer. Maybe take a set of gear and put something bomber in.