Two magnificent pitches of wild stemming up a spooky black groove on the Balconies. Pitch one involves steep knob climbing between sometimes sparsely-placed bolts. An occasional knob can be tied off, but the steep crux comes between a gap in protection opportunities.
Pitch 2 requires more hip-cramping stemming up the water-hardened chute. This pitch is not to be missed.
At the time of this writing, not all bolts are inspiring, and some loose rock is present.
Location
Lava Falls can be found in the middle of the Balconies. The route starts in a stand of trees just uphill from the Smiling Simian. Follow the black gully that pinches off at the top.
Protection
Quickdraws and full length runners for tying off knobs and clipping wandering bolts. Bolted anchors on both pitches.
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