This largest rock at Mt. Tamalpais, The Northern Formation consists of slabby featured volcanic rock with simpler climbing (5.3 - 5.7).
Setting up a top rope on the top of The Northern Formation is simple, as there are tons of large chalk stones and other formations to place slings around.
This rock faces south to northeast, so you will be in the sun most of the day, but in the shade in the later afternoon.
You can walk off any and all routes, which is recommended over lowering due to the jagged nature of the rock. The better walk off heads down the right (looking up) side of the rock, and is also a good way to set up a top rope.
Getting There
Approach time: 10 - 20 minutes
From the parking lot, head .3 miles up the plank trail to just below the lookout tower. Instead of going right up the finished stone path to the observation tower, head left into the smaller rocks (not down the path which will lead you to Oberman's Rock, The Leaning Tower, and The Southern Formation.)
As the rocks drop off, on the right you will see a distinct narrow trail heading downhill and left around the rocks. Head down this trail which will lead left around to the base of The Northern Formation.
There is also a direct approach to the top of The Northern Formation found by heading between the largest rocks opposite the path to the observation tower. Keep heading downhill following a small path with overgrown bushes that will make you duck. 50 feet later this will end up the the top of the rock.
You can also get a pretty full view of the Northern Formation from all of the other rocks on the east side of the mountain by looking north.
Tried to utilize the upper approach to the Northern formation this weekend. The trail is EXTREMELY NARROW AND STEEP AND SHORT (Read: you almost need to crawl on your belly) Although I ran out of time, I recommend using the Loop Trail approach as mapped in the guide book.