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Bear, The
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Smash n Grab 

5.11b/c

   

FA: Eric Berghorn
New Route: Yes
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11b/c [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 90 feet
Views: 126 page views

Submitted By: eric berghorn on Feb 9, 2009


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Description 

Name is derived somewhat from the actions of the unknown thieves who have been misbehaving in the parking area recently. . . Climb through the initial bulge on big holds (6 bolts, 5.10 c/d) to a low-angled sloping ledge. Clip the higher bolt (of the optional mid-point lower off anchor) and continue up and slightly left (sustained vertical face climbing 5.11 b/c) past five more bolts to a new lower-off chain anchor at a stance near the top of the cliff. This somewhat wandering line requires the use of longer draws and runners when appropriate to reduce rope drag. Expect Slightly gritty rock in places on this newly developed route.


Location 

Route starts by climbing 25 ft. up into the alcove just left of the obvious Bear Crack route. 1st bolt is clipped from a good stance just down and right from the start of steep lie backing/face climbing on grayish black rock. (25 feet up and right of right of lower bear arete route.)


Protection 

11 bolts, with an optional mid-point lower off anchor above initial 5.10 c/d bulge. Climb was originally led to the top anchors in a single long pitch. 60 METER ROPE REQUIRED to reach the ground if rappelling or lowering from chain anchors at the top. This anchor may be equipped for top-roping (60M), or used to rappell/lower off from the top of the Bear Crack (which finishes just right of Smash n'Grab.)