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Bear, The
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The Bear Crack 

5.9+

   

FA: Wade Mills and Forest Shute
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9+ [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 100 feet
Views: 162 page views

Submitted By: Dodrill on May 17, 2008


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Description 

This is THE crack climb in North Bay (which isn't saying much). It features hand and fist crack climbing, with some lie-backing, wideness, and good exposure. There's an old Star Dryvin bolt half way up. Don't clip it. Instead put a good 2.5" cam in the crack then fire the crux.


Location 

Scramble up the gully right of the Bear sport routes, 4th class, up through oak trees to the base of the obvious crack that splits the upper face.


Protection 

Bring 2 each, cams 1"-4". Three #3 camalots is a good idea. There is a two bolt anchor on the ledge to the left at the top.



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By daniel c
Sep 6, 2009
rating: 5.9

Crack often opens up in the back, making for great jams but tricky gear placements. 1-3 inch hexes would be perfect. Otherwise, load-up on larger cams but bring at least one .5 for near the top. Pass two bolt anchor on neighboring route to left, climbing up class 5 section to ledge with two bolts separated by ~2 feet. Two raps - first to the ledge, then to ground (be careful not to rain rocks on climbers below). Route gets very little traffic which adds to the chossiness but also the adventure factor. Do it if your jonesing for some trad! Well worth it.