The Beast 

FA:  Jordy Morgan, with Karl Guthrie and Joe Schwartz, 1988 Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.11c [details] Length:  1 pitch, 50 feet Views: 27 page views Submitted By: Dodrill on May 17, 2008 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

Originally called The Gong Show because of the hollow sounding flakes, this route has over time become known as The Beast. Start on the obvious, steeply overhanging hand crack, slam in a #1 Camalot and keep moving to the first bolt. This is pretty bouldery for a crack. Clip both bolts above, climbing through a sequential crux, and run it out on jugs to the anchor. Blow it up there and you'll get some nice air time. Exciting, and pumpy too!

This was .11b until some holds broke. Its not much harder now, but much more sustained. There are some hollow/ potentially loose flakes, especially the big lieback at the first bolt (This would be the fourth bolt if you are climbing Beast of Burden variation.) It creaks, but seems to hold for now. If it comes off the grade will go up a couple notches.

Location 

In the middle of the cliff, above a big yellow rock you can sit on. Left of Jason.

Protection 

#1 Camalot, a couple finger sized pieces could be used as well if you like to sew it up. Two bolt anchor.