Wayne's World, a great movie in it's day but not a great route! I was tempted to bomb it such was my hatred, but my parter liked (!!) it (on toprope of course!) so I gave it a star.
It's on it's own separate tower at the Bear crag. The start is ok, off vertical delicate moves that feel like slab moves, but you're pulling on sharp positive sidepulls and sanding on small pointy feet.
Pull a bulge after 2nd bolt, and wander up some low angle gully for a bit. The bolt line felt contrived to me through here, even though I hate calling things contrived.
On to the upper wall, I again stayed right of the bolt line. From the ground, you may spy a quicklink on the 7th bolt. I suspect this may be a semi-permanent bail feature because it's where things get downright nasty. There is a shallow pocket, a small roof, and another pocket up higher and to the left. How you connect these features is a mystery to me, I couldn't find any feet that would stick and ended up pulling through on the draw. Things ease a tad up higher, but the climbing is still thin and difficult.
Maybe I just want to bomb it because it was called .10b/c in the guide I had, which it is definitely not. I don't know if it is .12a, (EDIT: Changed to .11b/c with info from FA) but the move is very thin and difficult. There are several red scars around the crux, so key holds may be gone.
Party time? Noooot!
Excellent? As if!
Location
Right most route on the Bear, kind of on a separate tower.
Wayne's World, named in memory of a family friend who passed away tragically in 1998, though I'm quite fond of the film as well !!! Anyways, as the route author interested in getting consensus on the grade I think 5.11 b or c is closer 10 years after it went up, but this climb always seemed to feel easier for me, than for others. (NOT SPRAY, PLEASE BELIEVE ME ! Ha Ha) I would attribute this to familiarity after installing the route and later climbing it at least 10-12 times (the last time about two years ago, I had to hang at the 8th bolt myself!.) I'm in total agreement the 5.10 b/c is inaccurate today after holds you mentioned (red streaks) are gone. . . making the climb harder. I would suggest that the moves and sequence you felt might be 5.12 by the 7th bolt are less difficult by a number grade (5.11 b), but NOT obvious based on what I've witnessed watching others. For me (biased) this somewhat devious sequence of moves merits the repeating or redpointing of the climb. I also like that it's probably the longest single pitch bolted climb on MSH at 85 ft. (yes 50mm reaches barely but sufficiently, as the anchor is best where it is,on a much needed stance!) I like the airy feel of the climb though it's exposure, length, and rock quality are not for everyone. You are not alone CAUGHT INSIDE in your perceptions. Every person or partner I've watched or been on the climb with has expressed some level of disappointment and failure at the crux section. Somebody else installed the bail link to lower off the 7th bolt a few years ago. I've never been bothered by that as it apparently allows people to enjoy the route on some level (though it shouldn't be top-roped off a single bolt.) I climbed the route with no falls on my first attempt in 1998. It's harder now that it's cleaned up but no way is it 5.12. The first ascent experience was not a permanent one, an unfortunate side affect of the route cleaning up. I stopped recommending the route long ago to others after seeing my friends try to climb it once and never go back.(Sigh) I,like your partner (Thanks partner!:)) can only give the climb one star!
Hi Eric, thanks for the info, I made a few changes to the route entry. I left in that I thought it was .12 to show the world what a weenie I am and keep my ego in check. That move is hard and devious! When I got to the crux and saw the rock scars I figured it was really a 'holds broke old guidebook rating' sandbag, thanks for confirmation.
I'd agree w/the .11b/c rating - 2 years ago I had noted .11a, but after getting on it again yesterday b/c feels more appropriate. Slipped once at the crux, pulled through clean the 2nd time. I personally enjoy this route - very different climbing than the rest of the bear (rest of the mountain for that matter - most similar to Satellites (the prow)), nice long varied pitch with the business toward the end.
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