Kill Uncle is located just left of the center arete problem on the Bear. You can start by traversing left over a bush towards the first bolt for a 12b variation. It involves pumpy pulls with few feet until you meet the normal route.
The normal route involves a traverse to the second bolt from the arete. Use of underclings and big moves get you past the next two bolts, then the climbing eases as you finish up at the anchors.
Protection
4 bolts to hangers.To top-rope, drop your rope from the arete's anchors and clip a directional or two because of the route's constant overhang.
Staying right above the third bolt, linking to the Arete anchors, makes this a real classic, adds another crux move, and avoids the big hueco pod that breaks up the left finish.
I am not sure what to call the grade on this route. If starting in the chimney and traversing in, than I think this would get 12a for the crux sequence. However, the obvious and natural line (which we did) started directly below and a bit left of the bolt and followed the seam up and right to the pinch at the 1st bolt. Done this way, I thought the route was somewhere in the vicinity of 12c or d. I'm not comfortable calling it 12d yet because I was pretty burned by the time I got on it, but I think it is safe to say that this is solidly harder than 12b. I also think that a stick clip is wise because the fall zone is not on level ground. Also, if you do the chimney start, I think putting a 2 foot draw on the first bolt is wise and it still keeps the leader off the deck if you blow the second clip.
I am interested in what you think Mr. Dodrill. Best.
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