Mark's Moderate begins in the very obvious wide crack in the center of the Bear. Easy chimneying brings you past the first few bolts until the crack gets narrow enough to require a little thought. After the fourth bolt, head a little right to meet the 3 bolt anchor.
The second pitch is pretty fun. It heads straight up from the anchor past three bolts, then follows an overhung crack on a very featured face.
To the right of the crack, the rock is very lose. There's also a lose side-pull block near the third bolt. So be careful and very aware if there are people at the base of the bear.
Protection
4 bolts and a piton to 3 bolt belay on ledge, then 5 bolts to 2 bolts up top. The second pitch is a little runout at times but can easily be supplemented with a 1 or 2 inch cam. The top anchors are 20 feet back from the top ledge, and the ledge is full of loose rock. It is wisest to belay from up top and to BRING HELMETS!!!!You can walk off to the left via the crystal pockets area (see area overview map) or rappell off the top of Theodore Roosevelt and do a second rappell from the 1st pitch belay ledge.
Moderately sustained. A fall clipping almost any bolt would be a messy, bloody, twisted, agonizing.....well, not good. Made me think a bit though. Definitely not 5.9 like my guide book said. .10a/bR is more what I was thinking.
I agree with above post; 5.9+ sustained maybe. I took it easy and went with Theodore Rooseveldt on the second pitch. Much less heady for a rookie leader. Surprisingly good rock quality, though the top needs a good sweeping! Look out below!
With a .75 - 1 cam to protect between third and fourth bolt, I would take away the R but its still a little spicy. Be careful with the lichen on this route - chossiness goes down in the late summer / fall. Sustained 5.9 with 10a move over the bulge. Have fun! Enjoy the view and quiet from top.
I did the second or third ascent of this with Mark back in the day. It was loose and covered in thick lichen. I swore it was .10b, and still haven't been back on it.
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