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Far Side, The (Mt. St. Helena)
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5.9 
Better Eat Your Wheaties 
Boneless Chicken Ranch 
Bushy Crack 
Chief, The 
Death to the right 
Far 
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Feelin' Your Oats 
Jardinero 
Kola 
Near 
Nearer 
New Tradition 
Old Tradition 
Pile, The 
Saviour Heart 
Separation Anxiety 
Seymour Frishberg 
Shute-Mills Route 
Something Good 
Step To The Left 
War Party 

Separation Anxiety 

5.9+

   

FA: Chris Witmore and Tim Webmoor
New Route: Yes
Type: Sport, TR
Consensus: 5.9+ [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 60 feet
Views: 414 page views

Submitted By: Chris Witmore on Apr 27, 2004


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You and this route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

This route starts to the left of Kola and follows the bolting practice set by Summit with the first bolt around 17 ft off the ground. The route moves up and onto the left face of the spire. Great holds and long reaches will get you into the exposed section on the extremely unstable looking vertical flake. Take care with clipping the 4th bolt; one wrong move and you could end up hanging in the tree below. Also be careful of the large loose block just above the main flake--a human could easily pull this down.


Protection 

4 bolts, shares shuts with Kola



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By Chris Witmore
Apr 26, 2004

P.S. this route is called "Separation Anxiety" for good reason, the large flake, which comprises the entire upper section looks as if it wants to come down (and I'm sure it will eventually). Pray your not on it in the middle of an earthquake!

By Tim Webmoor
Apr 27, 2004
rating: 5.9+ R

Nice compliment to Kola rock. Getting off the ground to first bolt and moving with undercling between 2nd and 3rd bolts are highlights.Steps up to Kola rock help with the notorious slide-effect on the Far-Side.