Chris Parks TR's on the route "Face." Photo by Al...
Description
The "Face" route is the left-most bolted route at the bubble and is marked as "#1" on the topo attached. The route goes up the slabby-to-vertical face on pockets beside bolts the entire way, and tops out to a bolted anchor, just left of an obvious left-facing dihedral with a chimney in the back of it.
The climb is mostly moderate with protection at the crux. Shorter people may find this somewhat hard at the grade, but not harder than 5.10a/b. The crux is a reach spot 2/3 of the way to the top.
The anchors are placed back from the top such that long slings or webbing is necessary to set a TR or to lower off. This seems akward, but perhaps it was done to save wear from the people who would otherwise TR off of chains or shuts directly.
Protection
It is bolted, although not very closely. A 5.9 climber should be fine, but if you are a 5.7 climber and want to dog it, please consider a TR.
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BETA PHOTO: overview of the bubble
Jamie on the Face!
Add CommentComments on Face, The Bubble Mt. St. Helena
Guide books covering the area have it rated at 5.7, but Tony and had a discussion and decided that that's a pretty misleading, as we have friends who can usually climb 5.9 have trouble on it.
By Aron Quiter Administrator From: Berkeley, CA Oct 21, 2002
After climbing it, I think it's 5.7 if you are about 8, and have really really littlehands. Tall people will find this route harder than short poeple.There are tons ofhands and feet on this route, it's just that none of them are big.
One more reason this climb seems harder than the guidebooks claim is that it is absolutely impossible to see the wonderful holds above you. The face is too featured with little pockets. I watched people struggle for a while on a move until they finally stubled upon an enormous hold, then they could pull themselves up with ease.
My first sport lead (I currently lead 5.6/5.7 trad). Not strenuous, but some insecure moves. Moves aren't obvious, I had some trouble comitting (I don't know if the audience of hikers on the fire road was helping matters). Fun, though!
I'd agree with 5.9 as a rating. The bulge around 2nd bolt is definitely more strenuous than other 5.8s and the top is pretty balancey/technical. Fun climb.
Bubble, The
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