Alexander Rose climbs the initial moves of Savior ...
Description
The bolted route on the same rock as Shute-Mills, go around the pillar and you'll see it. You'll also notice that there's more climbing right of the bolts route that is top-roped as a 5.10a.Saviour Heart is another strightforwar steep face where the numerous little pockets provide plenty of hands. The crux is getting over the same bulge as on Shute-Mills, but well further to the left.
Protection
There are 3 bolts on this route, 1 at the bottom, and 2 surrounding the crux at the top, the area between is ~5.7 climbing and there are plenty of opportunities to place traditional gear if you're at all uncomfortable.
Somebody tell me if I am wrong, but this is the route around to the left which is near a chimney at the bottom- it goes up the stemming chimeny or blunt arete and past a boulder on a sloping ledge half way, then to the top and up/right.
THe protection would be larger stuff (cams) int eh crack as you proceed up higher, and since there is plenty of it, as well as several bolts, the route is either bolted and only S or not S at all of you have cams.
We declared the chimney moves off as they weren't really needed, and the crux is pulling onto the large boulder near the top. But yes, the blunt arete is Saviour Heart. As far as 's' versus 'vs' rating is concerned, I would agree that 's' may be reasonable, though without cams there's about a 20' runout when your only clip is 15' off the ground... therefore if you fall its 35' squarely into the groud. I guess the key is just using cams if your uncomfortable.
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