The first climb you see as you arrive at the Far Side, and a great warm-up. Lots of good pockes on a vertical boulder reaching about 50' feet up. Getting over the bulge near the top is the crux.
Protection
One of the few well-protected climbs in the Far Side. 5 bolts to a 3 bolt anchor shared with the other climbs on the rock.
Fun route, first bolt a bit high but otherwise well protected. Easier if you work your way up a gully to the right and approach the first bolt from that side. Also easier if you go left instead of straight over the bulge near the top. Probably 5.8 if you do these things, 5.9 if you stay on the line of the bolts. Shared anchor with New Tradition 5.7 to the left.
For me the crux is getting to the first bolt and I think it's solid 5.9. A small cam can be placed before the first bolt, but it takes out a good handhold. The bulge at the top is much easier, at least for me, feeling no harder than 5.7.
Far Side, The (Mt. St. Helena)
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