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Bear, The

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Bear, The

Submitted By: Brian Quiter on Jun 18, 2002
Administrator: Aron Quiter
Views: 393 page views

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BETA PHOTO: correct approach to the bear


Description 

The Bear is one of the highest areas on Mt. St. Helena, and it's name probably comes from the fact that it's a pain in the ass to get up to it. The climbing is on a large overhanging face and ranges from 5.9's to 5.12's. On the right side of the main face, there exists 3 second pitch routes that don't see much traffic. They can be approached from any of the climbs beneath because of the sizable ledge at their base. Finally, be a nice belayer and try not to lower climbers into the sharp trees beneath the climbs. Loose rocks above the second pitch climbs make it advisable to always wear a helmet at the base if any other groups are up top.


Getting There 

Approach time: From the bubble: 5-10 minutes.From the road: 20 - 45 minutes.

(edit)
Per Dodrill's comment. There is now an excellent approach trail to the Bear. Continue up the fire trail maybe 1/4 mile from the bubble, going past the Bear looming above on the left. As the fire trail takes a hard left there is a good narrow trail that traverses back right through manzanita and young pines towards the Bear.

The beta photo on the right is now very wrong. Hopefully our dear administrators will delete it sometime.

Old approach beta that is only here for posterity:
From the switchback at the bubble, continue up the firetrail about 150 yards and look for a steep, loose trail leading up from the left side of the road (its not too obvious). There's a dead tree across the road from the road form the beginning of the trail, but it doesn't really stand out, so we figured we'd supply some pictures.Upon finding the trail, you have about a 5 minute pain in the ass hike up the steep, loose path until you come to the left-most end of the bear. The first climb you'll come to is Jeckyl & Hyde and then Rampage, which begins near the noticable tree. As you continue adjacent to the rock, the Chimney climb, Mark's Moderate is a very recognizable landmark if you become disoriented.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Bear, The:
Bear Fingers   5.10a/b     Trad, 1 pitch, 55 feet   
Silverado Squatters   5.10b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
Lower Arete   5.10b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet   
Black Hole Sun   5.10d     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
Beast of Burden   5.11c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   
Stone Free   5.12a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
Jason and the Argonauts   5.12b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet   
Browse More Classics in Bear, The

Photos of Bear, The Slideshow Add Photo
Kurt Jensen on Black Hole Sun, Bear Cliff, Mt. St. Helena

Kurt Jensen on Black Hole Sun, Bear Cliff, Mt. St....


Comments on Bear, The Add Comment
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By Brian Quiter
From: Oakland, CA
May 1, 2004

Um... perhaps i should have written 250 yards up from the bubble. Also, the dead tree is gone, but you can identify the steep start to the trail by the roots on the right side of the beta pict that facilitate getting up the really lose and steep part.

By Dodrill
Feb 19, 2006

The Bear gets morning sun and afternoon shade. In winter it's best to climb in the sun all morning then go to the Bubble or Crystal Pockets when it gets shady and cold. In summer the hike can be brutally hot but The Bear is great all afternoon, after 2:pm, until dark. Don't forget a headlamp for the hike down. Bring more water than you think you will need and a jacket, even in summer. I'm always either too hot, or too cold up there, especially when fog rolls in.

Bear GPS: N38.39.120 W122.36.657 elev:3258'

By caughtinside
From: Berkeley, CA
May 5, 2008

You can get up and down every route at the Bear with a 50m rope.

By Dodrill
Nov 26, 2008

Updated approach beta: Please don't use the nasty erosion slope approach. Walk another couple hundred yards up the road (you will pass the cliff), and watch for the trail to your left that takes you casually to the crag.