The Bear is one of the highest areas on Mt. St. Helena, and it's name probably comes from the fact that it's a pain in the ass to get up to it. The climbing is on a large overhanging face and ranges from 5.9's to 5.12's. On the right side of the main face, there exists 3 second pitch routes that don't see much traffic. They can be approached from any of the climbs beneath because of the sizable ledge at their base. Finally, be a nice belayer and try not to lower climbers into the sharp trees beneath the climbs. Loose rocks above the second pitch climbs make it advisable to always wear a helmet at the base if any other groups are up top.
Getting There
Approach time: From the bubble: 5-10 minutes.From the road: 20 - 45 minutes.
From the switchback at the bubble, continue up the firetrail about 150 yards and look for a steep, loose trail leading up from the left side of the road (its not too obvious). There's a dead tree across the road from the road form the beginning of the trail, but it doesn't really stand out, so we figured we'd supply some pictures.Upon finding the trail, you have about a 5 minute pain in the ass hike up the steep, loose path until you come to the left-most end of the bear. The first climb you'll come to is Jeckyl & Hyde and then Rampage, which begins near the noticable tree. As you continue adjacent to the rock, the Chimney climb, Mark's Moderate is a very recognizable landmark if you become disoriented.
Um... perhaps i should have written 250 yards up from the bubble. Also, the dead tree is gone, but you can identify the steep start to the trail by the roots on the right side of the beta pict that facilitate getting up the really lose and steep part.
Please avoid the upper tier routes during winter and early spring. There may be a raptor nest on a ledge between Marks Moderate and the Bear Arete. In early February'06 juvenile birds could be heard from below and adults were flying overhead, keeping an eye on us.
Approach beta: try approaching 20' right of the erosion seen in the photo, on the other side of the tree. It's easier and more safe.
The Bear gets morning sun and afternoon shade. In winter it's best to climb in the sun all morning then go to the Bubble or Crystal Pockets when it gets shady and cold. In summer the hike can be brutally hot but The Bear is great all afternoon, after 2:pm, until dark. Don't forget a headlamp for the hike down. Bring more water than you think you will need and a jacket, even in summer. I'm always either too hot, or too cold up there, especially when fog rolls in.
Bear GPS: N38.39.120 W122.36.657 elev:3258'
By caughtinside From: Point Richmond, CA May 5, 2008
You can get up and down every route at the Bear with a 50m rope.
Bear, The
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