Most of the bolts were replaced on this route in late 05. The bolts on the anchors came out by hand. "Please, if you have never placed bolts in soft sandstone....DON'T". Some think the crux is just above the third bolt on the first pitch, some think its just below the top out on the second. Personally, I think its the top out. The rock is really solid for the most part on this route and it takes gear well. The bolts on the first pitch are a bit spacy but seem to come just before you might actually need one. This is a great route, one definitely worth doing.
Location
Obvious crack system to the far right side of the Pagoda. Follow the water stain past three bolts to the start of the crack system. You can bail from a 60m rope at any time. If you top out, make a short rap off the chains down the back side of the formation.
Protection
Cams 1ea. .3"-3" and about 4 QD's. Bolted anchors.
I just climbed the first pitch of this route and the anchors at the top of this pitch looked bomber to me. I rapped off them. The last bolt on the first pitch (the fourth bolt) before the anchors is OLD SCHOOL. Just don't fall on it!
Leading the second pitch could result in a dangerous fall directly onto the anchors due to a missing bolt and no pro (usefull pro at least) for the first 10 to 15 feet. Please exercise carefull judgement before leading the second pitch (or just do it as one long pitch.)
You can sew the second pitch up pretty tight right from the anchors all the way to the top actually. You may have to excivate a little to place a piece but there's a splitter 3/4in crack that takes bomber pro right off the anchors. Those old bolts are what I'd be worried about clipping, not the pro. Cams hold better than you'd think in that P Canyon stone. All the newer looking bolts are just that... new and bomber. The first pitch is the only pitch that has any sort of runnout as falling while clipping the second bolt will result in a ground fall.
The Pagoda
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