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Boy Scout Rocks - Upper Tier
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5.10 Face 
Chouinard's Crack 
Pie Crust 

5.10 Face 

5.10

   

FA: unknown
Type: TR
Consensus: 5.10b [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 90 feet
Views: 168 page views

Submitted By: Brian Quiter on Apr 7, 2002


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The holes right of the tree mark the start of the ...


Description 

This climb ascends the face just right of Chouinard's Crack (5.9+). Well, actually it traverses ~8' right onto the face just after the crux of the crack (you'll be able to tell). After another 15 feet of face climbing - which continues to get easier as you climb, you run out of holds and have a brief streatch of slab before reaching the ledge over which your top rope should hang.


Protection 

Far atop the upper tier, there is a medium sized tree near the center of the cliff, set your toprope from this. You'll need about 40' of webbing to keep rope drag to a minimun.



Add Comment Comments on 5.10 Face
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By Anonymous Coward
Jan 8, 2003

9-10 bolts, an excellent beginning sport climb. Enough run out to get the heart pumping. 2-3 places to rest, which will avoid the dreaded arm pump.

By Aron Quiter
Administrator
From: Berkeley, CA
Jan 8, 2003

Is this route now bolted? I think you might be thinking of one of the lower tier routes. Please let me know!

By Paul Rezucha
From: Alameda
Aug 6, 2007

First time climbing on the upper tier not thinking there was anything good there. I was wrong! This climb is very good. The crack crux I felt is 5.9 for sure. It may get easier once you figure out the best way to attack it. I struggled a bit not using the right wall at all. I'll try stemming next time and see if this helps. The traverse right onto the wall is fun starting with the large incut holds. Quickly holds run out moving further right. I think the crux is making these moves to get past the slight bulgy section to where you start climbing upward. Good rock and fun face climbing follows all the way to the slab section which I climbed towards the left side. I would say this route is definitely harder than Amazing Face by at least one letter grade. And no, there are not any bolts on this climb. 3 good bolts on top though but you still need about 8-10' slings to clear the edge.

By vincent L.
Nov 30, 2008
rating: 5.10a/b

There are now anchor bolts atop this route. I don't think you need 8' to 10' feet of webbing to avoid your TR damaging the rock. I used a couple of extended trad draws.

I believe that in order for this route to be 10a as it is in the SF bay area guide book, you need to start climbing out onto the face right next to the tree in Chouinard's crack. When you are climbing up the crack , there are some deceptive jugs out right before you actually get to the good rest by the tree. If you can send the face here , I believe it is much harder than 5.10 .

This is a good TR , there are no lead bolts.