This mixed area sits inside of Mt. Diablo State Park southeast of Walnut Creek, and northeast of Danville. Offering a mixed bag of climbing: trad, top rope, and sport routes are all found here. Additionally, there is some bouldering, but not at the major established climbing areas.
Access to the park will cost you up to 4 dollars per car, so heads up.
Most of the climbing is on sandstone, which makes the sport bolts sketchy, and some of the trad routes absolutely terrifying. It also makes for some fun smearing and edging moves everywhere.
Almost all areas have a simple way to set up a toprope, though you should bring really, really long slings (20' +) for many of the anchors.
Getting There
From the South:To access the main southern climbing area, Boy Scout rocks, exit 680 on the Diablo Rd exit in the city of Danville. Head east on Diablo road, and this will eventually lead into the park. This Southern entrance will also lead you to the other main climbing area call Pine Canyon, though it is a little bit farther.
From the North:Exit 680 on Ygnacio Valley Rd and head east. 2 1/4 miles later, hang a right on the 2nd Walnut, which is Walnut Ave. (and NOT Blvd), and head southeast. 1 1/2 miles later Walnut Ave will end into Oak Grove Road, where you should head right. Make an immediate left onto North Gate Road, which will wind it's way into the park.
You will get a map on the way into the park, which is nice, but not really needed.
The furthest left climb on the lower tier.Lieback the left side of the arch until you're almost to the top, then reach left to the thin crack above the roof, traverse this up and right until it joins a wider, vertical crack. Follow this one to the top.Ozone is a really unique climb that requires a lot of upper body strength....[more]
Crawl under the amnzanita and pucker brush, smile at the scratches and eat the fat ticks. Stuck my hand in a crack at rock city and pulled it out with a big gopher snake on the end of a finger, kind of freaky saw friend Brad A slide down a slab at the Boy Scout Rocks and lose both nipples, no shirt or rope. Nipples grow back or Brad is a lizzard not sure which. Passed a baby 6mo up the big chimney route below Sentinal Rock he is now a teen and climbs well. Opps now you know I'm old. Lots of lose rock slippery sandy placements heat and ticks BEAUTIFUL!
Dire Blow(?) Right of "Bolt Route" (can't we came up with better names here?) rebolted, very technical 5.11c. the first bolt is a bit high, but once you have the starting sequence of moves down, is not that scary. the route continues on tiny crimps and sidepulls with med to hig feet moves, very interesting overall. Skip the last 2 old rusty bolts for the new ones a bit on the left.Beautiful climb, to do as soon as you send "Bolted Route"Lead it!
Dinosaur 11d , Lower Tier, Fantastic technical slab route. Climbs for little less than 30 meters the slightly below vertical face immediately left of Diagonal Crack. Incredible moves on very small holds and footholds, new bolts. The best route of the area for that grade hands down.
Tried to get down to BS Rocks but the trail is overgrown with poison oak right now (June 3,2006) ....recommend long pants/shirt. Would be nice if somebody brought a weed-wacker or something like that up there.
By Patrick Sawyer From: Californian Living in Ireland Jun 8, 2006
How crowded is this place now? I'd imagine with the growing popularity of climbing (heck, Mattel just came out with a climbing Barbie) and climbing gyms that it would see a fair amount of traffic. Mt Diablo was where I first started climbing back in 1968 and I was a regular for many years. I haven't been there in over ten years as I have been living in Ireland since 1995 (born and raised in Walnut Creek and Lafayette).
Mount Diablo State Park
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