BETA PHOTO: The rope in the picture displays where to set up a...
Description
In my opinion the best route of Diablo. Climbs a series of very small crimps immediately right of "Diagonal Crack".The first bolt is 15 feet high, but after you boulder or TR the start a couple of times it does not scares you anymore. Offers a wide variety of face moves including sidepulls, mantles, and highstepping on tiny holds.Arrange long anchor slings if you want to avoid the final runout mantle on loose rock. Reminds of J.Tree kind of climbing.
I would like to upgrade this route, either holds broke or is the hardest 11d I ever tried. It's a 12 and very heat dependent, beautiful if you like SMALL crimps and intense footwork.
By Patrick Sawyer From: Californian Living in Ireland Jun 8, 2006
I worked this route (if it is the one the description sounds like) for a long time in 1973 and 1974, though Claude Fiddler beat me to finish it in the end (we both worked it together and separately). I think it is one of the best climbs on the mountain.
By far the hardest 11d ever! I only worked it once and took at every bolt. It's a puzzle to find the holds and they're super crimpy or slopey and it's SUPER sustained. Would be a very proud send. 5.12a/b I thinks. Quality climb.
Boy Scout Rocks - Lower Tier
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