By Tony B From: Boulder, CO Sep 22, 2003 rating: 5.8
OK climb- but hard at it's grade. It's also a pain in the butt for only 35' of rock in my opinion. TR off of the small tree and off of some GREAT stoppers in the grooves to the left that were 'cut' by other ropes + a cam of two ~.4-.6" inches there. Lead with 1 set of cams from 1" to 4".
Not bad, but not good. I guess if the sun is right with respect to it, or the rest of the routes are taken, it's worthy, but not a destination or a "tick list" climb.
Sure was a lot of work for "5.6"... I'd say it was awkward and physically demanding. the holds are slopey and sandy. I'll go as far as to call it 5.8.
This is one of the sandiest and most fragile routes I've been on at Diablo. My guess is that the 5.6 rating was given before significant erosion took place. It felt more like a strengthy 5.8 (especially for those who lack long legs allowing stemming across the bottom cave).
I found the best thing about the route to be the mind trip aspect of holds falling apart beneath your shoes.
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