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Boy Scout Rocks - Middle Tier
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Right Bolts Direct Start 

5.10d

   

FA: unknown
Type: TR
Consensus: 5.10c/d [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 30 feet
Views: 65 page views

Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Jun 24, 2002


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BETA PHOTO: The middle section of the middle tier. Climb left ...


Description 

The direct route to the coldshuts on the right side of the middle tier. These are located about 15' to the left of the crack (5.7).

This route is pretty straight forward, climb up into the bowl, and then work your way up and right up the cracklike feature on the rock. The crux is the top of the crack, though you can add another mini-crux by traversing over to the top anchor at the top instead of topping out.


Protection 

Coldshuts on top, use a sling (5'+) to avoid rope drag on the rock.



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By Tony Bubb
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 22, 2003
rating: 5.10c

OK route, short and reasonably solid. sandy though...The grade of 5.10c is probably about right as I did it, which is how it is described, going up the rock to the seam, up on the seam, then traversing back left below the bolt anchor. You can also go to the bowl, traverse left 6 feet (10a), then climb back up and right to the anchors to make it easier.

One of the bolts at the TR anchor is a nasty spinner that is obviously fracturing out of the rock and should be replaced very soon. Contributing to this failure rate is probably the tendancy for people to TR through both anchors iwth no draws, multiplying and re-directing the orces on those anchors.

Too sandy to be a good route- not bad, true, but definately not good.

The grade of 5.10c is probably about right as I did it, which is how it is described, going up the rock to the seam, up on the seam, then traversing back left below the bolt anchor. You can also go to the bowl, traverse left 6 feet (10a), then climb back up and right to the anchors to make it easier.

One of the bolts at the TR anchor is a nasty spinner that is obviously fracturing out of the rock and should be replaced very soon. Contributing to this failure rate is probably the tendancy for people to TR through both anchors iwth no draws, multiplying and re-directing the orces on those anchors.

By Zeke
From: San Francisco
Oct 24, 2005
rating: 5.10d

Another possible variation is either getting into the initial cave from the left side or the right side. The left side appears to be more difficult, and some is balancey fun. The move is complicated by the fact you have to do tricky foot/body positioning while getting your fingers to stick the small seam of a sandy sloper. I ended up crucified on two small holds while doing some dance steps. I did the top as Tony Bubb did, but, unlike him, I think these two variations make the climb a solid 5.10D, as previously rated.