The holes right of the tree mark the start of the ...
Description
This climb ascends the face just right of Chouinard's Crack (5.9+). Well, actually it traverses ~8' right onto the face just after the crux of the crack (you'll be able to tell). After another 15 feet of face climbing - which continues to get easier as you climb, you run out of holds and have a brief streatch of slab before reaching the ledge over which your top rope should hang.
Protection
Far atop the upper tier, there is a medium sized tree near the center of the cliff, set your toprope from this. You'll need about 40' of webbing to keep rope drag to a minimun.
First time climbing on the upper tier not thinking there was anything good there. I was wrong! This climb is very good. The crack crux I felt is 5.9 for sure. It may get easier once you figure out the best way to attack it. I struggled a bit not using the right wall at all. I'll try stemming next time and see if this helps. The traverse right onto the wall is fun starting with the large incut holds. Quickly holds run out moving further right. I think the crux is making these moves to get past the slight bulgy section to where you start climbing upward. Good rock and fun face climbing follows all the way to the slab section which I climbed towards the left side. I would say this route is definitely harder than Amazing Face by at least one letter grade. And no, there are not any bolts on this climb. 3 good bolts on top though but you still need about 8-10' slings to clear the edge.
There are now anchor bolts atop this route. I don't think you need 8' to 10' feet of webbing to avoid your TR damaging the rock. I used a couple of extended trad draws.
I believe that in order for this route to be 10a as it is in the SF bay area guide book, you need to start climbing out onto the face right next to the tree in Chouinard's crack. When you are climbing up the crack , there are some deceptive jugs out right before you actually get to the good rest by the tree. If you can send the face here , I believe it is much harder than 5.10 .
RSS Feed
