Sallie traversing in from the right to reach the f...
Description
This climb ascends the only bolts on the face of Flintstone rock, heading up and left the right side of the south face.
Climbing is sketchy and scary, so this is probably not a good project for your first .10 lead. Additionally, climbing faces south, so on a hot summer day the rock will soften even more, and your hands will ooze with sweat. But, the climb is great, the seemingly blank face will make its pockety grips appear as you head up the slabby route.
The lowest bolt is about 20 feet off the ground, and well after the crux of the route, so either stick clip the first bolt, or hang on and climb through. Many of the holds and bolts on this route will not hold your weight independently. A fall before the first bolt will send you off the rock and after an unpleasant uneven bounce into the sharp thorny bushes surrounding the base of this rock, which would really not be a fun experience.
Protection
Seven bolts to a 1 bolt top anchor. Lowering off of this bolt is really not a good idea, just walk off the top.
To set up a top anchor, bring a long sling (30') and use the rocks and trees behind the route just right of the outlet of the pidgeon tunnel (5.8), these rocks and trees can be accessed following a trail through the trees and shrubs on the top of the right side of the rock.
Excellent route! I haven't climbed it in about 12 years and it didn't have a bolt at the top then. Beautiful area to climb and a really fun lead. It would be fun to see Rock of Ages and The Pagoda rocks on this web site. I used to climb in this area when I was in high school and I put up the bolt route on Pagoda that the Bay Area Rock Climbing guide called 5.10a. We named it Blue Zenith. Someone told me that the bolt hangers had been removed; I haven't been back to verify that now that I live in Golden, CO. Pine Canyon is a really special place and I recommend that people go out and explore it!!
By Paul Rezucha From: Alameda Oct 10, 2005 rating: 5.10a
Yabba Dabba Dudes is a great route but I didn't give it the highest rating just because I've done much better, safer climbs. It is fun and challenging though! The first bolt is way up there but getting there is not the crux. Let me say this another way. It COULD be the crux if you head up in a straighter line for the bolt. Thin and dicey and slopey for sure. If you stay right a bit longer you get to good hand holds about bolt high which then you can traverse left from. Still, you have to keep your head! Falling off here would be pretty messy. The climb has a couple cruxes I would say. Getting up to the 3rd bolt is the first thin crux and then the final moves up past the last bolt and small cave is also thin for feet. You could escape right at the end for easier climbing. There is no bolt on the top unless I am going blind. I searched and searched but ended up putting in three cams (medium to large) and tied off the large rounded block. The bolts look ok but they aren't the larger 3/8" bolts I think which I would prefer in this rock. How good they are is in question as this rock is very soft and vulnerable to wear. Certainly a very good climb but it was scary for me as I contantly questioned the bolts' ability to catch a fall all the way up!
By Brad Allender From: Alameda, CA Oct 13, 2005 rating: 5.10a
Great climb, it made the hike in (which really wasn't that bad) worth it. It is very similar to Amazing Face in style of climb. Not quite as classic, but fun in the same way. Very footwork intensive. Sure would be nice if there were some bolts on top though!
Did Yabba Dabba on 22nd April 2006.... a scary climb till the first bolt
A few things: 1. The first bolt as already stated is 20 feet off the ground. A fall before that could be bad. Would be nice to have a bolt at 10 ft level too , hence making the route safe and enjoyable. Getting to the first bolt is bit dicey , be careful. Stay to the right initially.
2. The rock is sandy and so footholds tend to slip.
3. There is a thin crux just before the 3rd bolt , but now you have 2 bolts below you so not to worry. The bolts seemed to be in good shape. The first bolt hanger was shaky though.
4. I too could not find any bolt on the top. Had to sling the huge boulder on the top for top anchor.
A scary lead on the whole .....
By Salamanizer From: Vacaville Ca. Jun 22, 2006 rating: 5.10a
^^^ Safe and enjoyable? Sense when is climbing safe? And what does "safe" have to do with enjoyable? That route was probably put up on lead. If not it was certainly put up in a more traditional style. That's the unique nature of Pine Canyon. Love it or leave it. Just don't retro bolt it.
John Gatti and I put this climb up in true old dad style, ground up, with no TR or rapping down to preview. That's a hard style to stick to at Diablo, new climbs are always sandy and lose and burn a big hole in the brain. On the plus side, good adventure can be found close to home. Normaly I don't go for adding bolts to a climb but this one could use a lower bolt. As it is, the start is tricky high ball and after that its bolted to death. The top is crap rock, I woudnt trust any bolt anchor up there.
norman
By Salamanizer From: Vacaville Ca. Jul 5, 2007 rating: 5.10a
I'd say most of the routes in Pine Canyon went in ground up on lead. I know all mine have. Pine Canyon is one of the only and last frontiers for adventure climbing anywhere near the Bay Area. It's a special place indeed. Hope it stays that way.
I really respect you guys who bolted this climb in ground up style.
My intention was never to put any bolt , i know its always a contreversial topic ... but I just felt that the first 20 feet was the most unprotected part of the climb hence that was just a suggestion from a beginner climber (ie me :-) )
And ya , now that I have shifted to the east coast (Atlanta) , i truely realize the imprtance of having such a wonderful area (Pine canyon) so near to our home.
RSS Feed
Slideshow
