Lower Tier, Diagonal Crack 

The line is not that bad to protect and not that hard. For most folks the crux will be 10' off the ground and is well protected. SHorter folks might find another crux just below the left-hand finish, going to a big flake/jug.

The climb is easily protected up to the huge arch with no bolts at all. THe huge arch can be slung through with a cordalette, (there are bolts on either side of it for a short TR) and you can finish left (up to an easy chimney) or right on a sloping, loose traverse.

For more spice/difficulty up top, instead of diagonaling left under the final bulge, cut up and right into a steep, narrow, open book (hard, slopey) to add a crux.

I lead the climb on a set of stoppers, cams from 1" to 3.5" and pink, red, and brown tricams. As it was my first lead here and I knew little of the rock quality, I loaded the crack with gear, placing mostly at 5' intervals. Later, a huge # of people TR'd below the gear and eventually hung on or swung on most of the pieces- ALL held that much.

After leading, building an anchor at the big arch by the 2 bolts would be best, then let the follower finish up to the tree- no drag, no swinging in the event that the second falls, and a better place to watch from.

Two stars for this crag, or maybe 3. Keeping in mind the area, I thought the line was almost as good as, but more interesting than Amazing Face.

Mostly 5.9 with a few harder moves. Crack climbing experience is requisite to grade the climb as such.

So I forgot my guidebook this last weekend and decided to lead the Diagnol.

I made a few bad choices that I think I should mention here so that other people dont do the same.

After the third bolt (there are three on the climb, the first two are VERY suspect) the climb either goes left into a dirty 5.6 chimney or traverses right as Tony metioned.

It also looks like you could go straight up. The face is pretty well featured on the steep part as far as you can see. I decided to go up.

After 10 feet of 5.9 or so, the face becomes much less steep. But, there aren't any holds on this part and its mossy and sandy. 15 feet above my last bolt (not as suspect as the last two, but still worrisome), 5 feet from the top, I was stuck and unhappy. After scrubbing moss for 5 minutes and finally getting someone up top to toss down a sling (for me to grab in case my feet started to slide), I did the sandy slab move free. It was probably 10b. But it was scary as hell and I don't recommend anyone going this way on lead unless another bolt is drilled into the top of the face.

Diagonal Crack is a great route to be sure. I put off trying to lead this as it always looked very intimidating but the climb actually does protect very well. I, too, laced the route with gear mainly because I don't trust the quality of the rock to take a longer fall. Of course by placing so much gear I got very pumped making the last move to the final jug this much " " too hard. I grabbed the jug and fingers just peeled off. I don't know if I missed a placement or didn't have the right gear but I fell about 15' with rope stretch. A good rest and I made it second try. I think this top move is the crux of the climb as it's a very thin move with a long reach. To exit, I ended up traversing the easy way to the left and going to the top with TONS of rope drag.A much more difficult lead than Amazing Face and good crack technique is a must!

Very nice. Good gear. The top out is disappointing. Solid 10b in my opinion.

I agree with Tony. Feels like mostly "Yosemite 5.9" with a few slightly harder moves. Not 10d, though. Pro was pretty good when you need it. Going left after the 1st bolt is easy but leaves a short, semi-exposed crack between you and safety. I didn't go right, but the anchor is probably better for TR. I led this climb on BD cams .5-1, and purple to red link cams. an extra 2 and 3 would be good if you like lots of gear. The linkies are good on some of the pin scar-like pods.