The furthest left climb on the lower tier.Lieback the left side of the arch until you're almost to the top, then reach left to the thin crack above the roof, traverse this up and right until it joins a wider, vertical crack. Follow this one to the top.Ozone is a really unique climb that requires a lot of upper body strength.
Protection
There is a tree above the route to set a top rope on. Approach it by hiking up the steep trail left of the lower tier. Go right towards the face at the first turn. Bring long slings.
I remember this one from way back too. It was a blast I always loved playing around with different lie backs and underclings. I always felt that to complete the route speed was the order of the day. If you get stuck trying to make the transition from the crack system to the face you'll burn out the old forearms suffling back and forth.If you don't mind some swinging if you fall on top rope there are several mini climbs all along this one stretch.
Ozone is a great route and although we toproped the route it could be a pretty safe lead. Good jamming techniques above the arch make this upper section not too difficult. Without make it VERY difficult!We didn't tape up and hands got a little beat up. All in all, a very fun route! The variation makes for some very interesting face moves!
By Tony B From: Boulder, CO Sep 22, 2003 rating: 5.10c
Steep and reachy- powerful.
Rack from .5" to #4-Camalot cams- double 3-4" if you like a lot of pro. Cruxes are at #4 Camalot and at 2.5" The top balancey move is near a placement for a small TCU or microcam.
The 2-star rating here definitely is 'for the area' in other places, it would be lacking quality. There are definately better climbs on the cliff.
5.10c is fair, or maybe 10b. Good jamming and stemming keeps it within reason and gives enough rest so as not to make the ascent a horse-race.
By Patrick Sawyer From: Californian Living in Ireland Jun 8, 2006
We use to just call it The Arch, and I can say with certainty, having climbed Diablo since 1968 on a regular basis, that Claude Fiddler and I freed this in 1974, or was it 1973? Both the dihedral and the direct start. I don't know who named it but it could have been Claude at a later date. I'll ask him since we just got in contact for the first time in well over 20 years thanks to the internet (through supertopo.com, great forum). It is a fun climb and one of my favorites on Diablo, where I cut my teeth and first started climbing. Haven't been there for over ten years as I am now living in Ireland (born and raised in Walnut Creek and Lafayette). I'd be curious to how crowded it gets nowadays, what with the growing popularity of climbing and number of climbing gyms.
anybody lead this route? Ive top-roped it a few times and feel like the pro beneath the roof is reasonable. a bit concerned about blowing it out though