John nearing the top of Bolt Route. Climber to th...
Description
On the east face of the Lower Tier, immediately right of the route with two giant holes at the bottom. Very pumpy and unrelenting but no move is harder than about 5.10d. There are cruxy moves at the top and bottom of the climb, and knowing which holds to use is key. Trust your feet and be patient.
Protection
There are 14 bolts, with chain anchors at the top.
By Aron Quiter Administrator From: Berkeley, CA Jun 25, 2002
Burrrrnnneeeyyy. Only a couple of resting points on the way up. Very interesting moves on the top and bottom, with scarce deminishing feet in many sections. Beware!!! The 8th and 12th bolts are loose, and will probably pull out on someone pretty soon.
One of my Bay Area favorites. The start frustrates a lot of people, but once you get past it, it's sustained and intense. If you have a TR set up on it, you can climb up Amazing Face a bit and swing over to skip the start. That's cheating, to be sure, but if the first couple moves are stumping you, at least you can enjoy the rest of it.
By Aron Quiter Administrator From: Berkeley, CA Sep 30, 2002
The 8th and 12th bolts need redrilling, as they are both quite loose.
This is a great route! First moves are frustrating. Fingers and feet slip off without warning. I think this route is mistakenly rated at 5.10b in the newest Bay Area Climbing book. No way is this 5.10b! I think the bottom moves are the hardest with another hard move getting to third bolt. There are 2 or 3 no hands rests but on the lead I couldn't take advantage of them. Last move to the chains was very hard for me too as my arms were fried. A very enjoyable climb once you get off the ground! I would say at least a letter grade harder than Ozone direct variation which is really only one hard move. *** I just registered but wanted to post this today. Paul Rezucha
Very nice and technical climb. Using a pair of lace up shoes will help you stand on small footholds. hard start and sustained climbing up to a second crux at the top, some creative footwork required. It was my first time at Mt Diablo (climbing) and I was very surprised, this place is a little gem. A little too many bolts on the route ( 12!) and .11a in my opinion. because of the 2 cruxes and because of the continuity.
By Tony B From: Boulder, CO Sep 22, 2003 rating: 5.11a
Sandy up top, and the flakes left behind near where the old bolts were pulled are ready to snap. COnstant TR'ing had worn the top holds so soft nubs and it is a little scarey up there. This is not a 'speach' it's just an observation. The nature of this stone gives itselt to that sort of issue.
Good route, but a little mucky when it's hot or humid. Do it before you wear your pads down to a seaping mess- you need the friction.
harder than any of the other 10's by leagues. compared to this, Ozone and Diagonal Crack (even on trad lead) are cake walks.
Dire Blow(?) Right of "Bolt Route" (can't we came up with better names here?) rebolted, very technical 5.11c. the first bolt is a bit high, but once you have the starting sequence of moves down, is not that scary. the route continues on tiny crimps and sidepulls with med to hig feet moves, very interesting overall. Skip the last 2 old rusty bolts for the new ones a bit on the left.Beautiful climb, to do as soon as you send "Bolted Route"Lead it!
Very nice climb! Thin sustained face and many many bolts to make you feel safe and warm inside. I didn't notice the loose bolts, they may have been replaced by now. Bay area climbs has it rated at 10b....no freakin' way! Solid 11a, possibly a/b.