BETA PHOTO: Unknown Rock sitting 200 yards below Flintstone Ro...
Description
If anyone knows the name of this rock and the route names and grades, please post a comment below and we will certainly update this page giving full credit to the route setters!
This Unknown Name rock lies below Flintstone Rock about 200 yards and is not set far in from the Stage Road. It is back and left of the very large rock outcropping that sits very close to Stage Road as seen in the photo. There are two sets of anchors on top of the rock indicating two known routes. One route is an 8 bolt sport route while the other seems to be 100% trad. The rock is very loose and crumbly on the sport route. The cliff faces west and gets full sun from late morning onwards. Descent is off the top to the right and meets up with the trail leading down from Castle and Flintstone Rocks.
Getting There
The easiest approach to this area is from the Stage Road in Pine Canyon. From the parking lot, the walk in is about 15 minutes. The rocks come in full view as you approach an obvious stream wash crossing the road. An easy approach trail leads up and left of the major rock outcropping to the base of this rock. Continuing up the trail gets you to Flintstone Rock and further up to Castle Rock.
That rock formation is called "Miller Pillar". The two routes and descriptions from left to right are: Dingleberry crack (5.9)Trad, (FA.Unknown) Good pro for the most part. Climb a short wall to get to the dingleberry, then get pro in and climb around. Continue up to the short crux where the crack gets continually smaller until it runs out just after a fixed pin. Climbing above the pin to the anchors is the real crux because its a bit runnout. Just to the left is the "Right Cheek" (5.10+)sport(FA.Chad Suchoski 04) A bouldery start makes this climb much harder. A critical hold broke down low then looks to be chipped back in by some coward who wanted to bring the climb to his level. The crux is sustained through the first two bolts then eases up to .9/10 terratory on reachy juggy holds. All bolts are 1/2in by 3 3/4in Powers bolts. Top anchors are 4 3/4 by 1/2in Powers bolts. The bolts are bomber. The rock is a bit loose and hasn't seen to many accents. Probably better for toprope unless you have it well in hand.
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