Sandstone fun. Mmm... Sport routes, trad routes and top ropes all exist on this lower section of climbing. Because of the fragile nature of this rock, bring long slings for topropes(20'+), don't climb this area for at least 3 days after a rain storm, and be careful of loose bolts and anchors, as many of them cannot withstand too many serious falls.
Getting There
Approach time: 11 minutes.
Be aware of lots of poison oak in the area.
To get to the Boy Scout Rocks, head into the park from either entrance, though the south entrance is a little closer. Park at the Rock City picnic area, and head south road on foot. A little ways down (150 yards or so) you will see a large rock (60'+) on the right with an obvious large crack in the middle, and a CLOSED climbing area. Don't climb this rock, or other areas in the park will be endangered as well.
Instead, hang a left downhill on a trail a little past this rock. There are several trails, most are infested with poison oak, so beware. One steeper trail that is LESS infected is found by locating the top of the rock, which is a little downhill from other paths. It is also located just to the left of the top of the upper tier, which stands about 15 feet tall next to the road. Follow this steep windy trail down about 50 yards, and you will be standing in the corridor between the upper tier (uphill) and the middle tier (downhill). Head downhill another corridor, and you'll be in the corridor between the middle tier and the lower tier. Head a little further down, and you'll be on the ground floor with the lower tier on your right.
The ground floor is where most of the lower tier established climbing lies, though there are also a few routes on the north side of the rock.
The furthest left climb on the lower tier.Lieback the left side of the arch until you're almost to the top, then reach left to the thin crack above the roof, traverse this up and right until it joins a wider, vertical crack. Follow this one to the top.Ozone is a really unique climb that requires a lot of upper body strength....[more]
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I recently found out that there's a much easier trail to get to the rock.Instead of following the road back towards the south/west entranceand then going down the poison oak infested and steep downhill trail,go across the road from the parking area to the picnic area (but stillveer towards the direction you would have headed on the road).You'll find a nice, even trail that heads directly below the lowesttier of boyscout rocks.
Boy Scout Rocks - Lower Tier
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