Taken from the west, showing the climber high up o...
Description
This is located on the northwest side of main rock at Mickey's Beach, sitting one route right of the main corner route (5.10b) that always seems to have a top rope on it.
Start on a slab, head up over a vertical corner and finish on some barely featured slab climbing.
This has a serious rating because it's about 20 vertical feet from the last bolt to the top anchor, and there aren't too many holds in the top section. This makes some people chicken out and head to the right to Pelicans (.12a), which has simpler slab climbing on the top, though either way is still scary.
Protection
4 (or 5 if you cheat and cut right instead of going to the top) bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor.
A very fun route! It would be a bold lead getting to the anchors as your feet would be about 6-8' above the last bolt on pretty hard, thin, moves. Moves do get easier the higher you go though. At the ground, I assume you go up just right of the Corner Route. About 5.9. There is a bolt further down and right but this might be for Pelicans only. Very good rock great route!
I came back to lead this and was pleasantly surprised that I didn't freak out! Having toproped it a month ago, I knew what to expect. Luckily the harder moves are down closer to the last bolt. The upper moves to get to the anchors are not as difficult and you just have to keep cool. This is one great route and a very satifying lead!
I'd say there are two different cruxes: 1) the initial traverse on some greasy footholds, and 2) the first move off the last bolt. Then there's the mental crux of continuing up a slightly featured slab to the anchors WAY above the last bolt! I'd agree with Paul that this is one of the most satisfying leads. I'm hesitant whether it's a 5.10B or 10C. I guess in the tricky moves/mental aspect sense, it is a 10C.
Main Rock
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