Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
Grey Slab
Show routes:
Select route...
Rust Never Sleeps 
Unknown - Grey Slab 

Rust Never Sleeps 

5.10a R

   

FA: unknown
Type: Sport, TR
Consensus: 5.10a [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 40 feet
Views: 185 page views

Submitted By: Brian Quiter on Mar 6, 2005


Add Photo  Add Comment 
You and this route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

Adam on Rust Never Sleeps. Low tide, perfect weat...


Description 

Rust Never Sleeps is the left of two routes on the Gray Slab. Start by traversing left across slab above crashing waves until you reach the first bolt. Then continue moving up and left on quality slab moves to the second bolt and up to the top. Lots of fun but probably best for a confident 5.10 leader.


Protection 

There are two bolts to a 3 bolt anchor, but no rap chains, so the last person to climb usualy walks off the right side of gray slab (5.3). You can also set up a top rope by soloing the arete first.

Falling before the first bolt would not be fun, and you have to traverse a long way on slab before you get to it (5.8).

Ropes often end up wet too.



Add Photo Photos of Rust Never Sleeps
Often you don't want to be standing like this while belaying... if I fell Adam would have been pulled straight off his feet. <br />There's a good spot to belay by sitting right there though.<br />Photo by Chris Tirrell.

Often you don't want to be standing like this whil...

Craig reaching the top of Rust Never Sleeps.

Craig reaching the top of Rust Never Sleeps.


Add Comment Comments on Rust Never Sleeps
Show which comments —
By Brad Allender
From: Alameda, CA
Feb 6, 2006
rating: 5.10a R

I did this climb for the first time in a couple years and it really seems to have been battered by the sea. The holds seem to have disappeared and some of the face is getting a little crumbly. Still a great climb, but harder and scarier that I remembered it!