Corner Route - Mickey's Beach 

What a fun route! Hard enough so you can't just run up it. The holds that make the climb reasonable are not obvious and need to be found. Interesting moves! Next time I will lead it. First time at Mickey's Beach and I wanted to get a feel for the rock. Someplaces a little slick but good solid rock. The bolts are spaced far enough apart to make it a little run out and bold.

Just returned to try and lead some of the routes I toproped about a month ago. The 3 bolts on this route are spaced close enough to be safe but far enough apart to make it pretty exciting! This really is a good route. Doesn't look it from the ground but there are some great moves to figure out!

A very fun variation of the Corner Route is the Corner Route without the Corner. Simply climb the Corner Route from the ground to top without using any holds in the corner seam or anything to the left of the corner seam.This route could probably be led quite safely using the 3 bolts of Corner Route as the harder moves are very close to the second and third bolts. Start a bit right of the easy Corner Route start. Easier climbing gets you up to the first bolt and then you will find a few difficult, balancy face moves to get up to the downward facing flake. From the flake, easier ground gets you to the top. This variation seems almost as hard as Slab Route so it may be 11a/b.

A further variation is heading up right of this route by several feet. Once gaining a good stance where Walkin' A Thin Line bears right about 15 off of the ground, climb straight up reaching an obvious 4 in by 16 in ledge. From this go straight up. I haven't finished this yet as it blanks out but I think it will go.

Just for info, the main handhold at the crux just past the second bolt is really loose.Its been loose since i first climbed there 5 years ago, but this time it seemed to shift about half an inch to the left. Be careful.

Had a fun day up at the Main Rock yesterday. Been awhile... Saw that lots of chalk was on the variation I mentioned above that goes up about 6-7' right of the actual corner of Corner Route. Turns out to be a bunch of VERY thin moves (using tiny feet instead of hard crimpy hands) all the way to topping out. Probably 11a or so. Fun to do since you probably have a TR setup anyway.

I've tried several variations too. One that is cool with a TR is to start Walkin A Thin Line and then go into the Corner Route. That way you get a little more length as well as cutting out the simplistic start. Also, that flexing hold is still hanging on. I've been leading it without that hold because I know it's gonna pop off one of these days anyway. Actually, while seeming really good, it is a sucker hold because you want to go left at that point. That's my take.