Paul and I climbed this route again for the second...
Description
Plenty of sideways movement on greasy holds makes this one of the toughest 5.9's in the bay area. Also, it is a tid-bit run out, so its not a good lead unless you're comfortable on at least .10 i'd say.The route is located opposite of the ocean, so it doesn't depend on the tide.
Protection
2 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor with chains. Presently, the only established way to the top of rock.
By Aron Quiter Administrator From: Berkeley, CA Sep 19, 2002 rating: 5.9+
I'd agree that this was a tough route for a 5.9. The traversy moves in the middle of the route were interesting, and it took some thought to figure out how to get from the first clip to the second.
Hold on for the first clip
By Aron Quiter Administrator From: Berkeley, CA Sep 19, 2002 rating: 5.9+
one more test, these should be deleted tommorrow by me.
I thought that this would be a fun way to end the day and thought I would cruise it. I found it very tiring and not obvious. It was fun but definitely a challenge. I'm glad others found this to be a tough 9 also!
This was a difficult 5.9 at best. I think the scariest aspect is that the first bolt is about 12-14 feet up but the ground falls away to the right making a fall very perilous. The hand holds were not so easy to find as were the footholds, especially at the bottom. More than once, I had to do a double take to figure out where I was going. After the first bolt, the route became more fingery and I migrated to the right side to get over the top. Don't worry about locking beaners or super tech gear, the route is too short, just a couple of quick draws and a strong partner to spot you at the base....
Classic two bolt climb. I finally RPd this a couple weekends ago, and I'd like to think I'm in the 5.11 range. Tricky. The deal is you get towards the second bolt and your feet are usually on one of the greasiest, insecure feeling holds ever. That's when I usually make a grab for the ring/bolt above. This time I finally hiked my feet up a little more (and above the greaser) and found the big jug to a little above and right of the ring. Then you have a fun mantle to a beautiful view of the ocean and a variable quality view of the nudey beach!