Clipping the 4th bolt. Copyright 2002 Melissa Moor...
Description
Find this route on the far right side of the north face of the rock. It can be tide dependant for the belay stance, though standing on the prominent rock behind the climb will help in all but the highest of tides. An interesting balancy route with great ocean views. Near the top avoid the temptation of heading way right, as the rock there is quite loose.
We lucked out and had gorgeous weather with a wonderful sunset! This route is fantastic! Even the very first move getting both feet on the wall was interesting! Moving to the right over the crashing waves makes this route fun and exhilarating! It doesn't look that steep up around the 4th bolt but it is! I blew out first try and had to give it a strong second attempt to get past this crux. I'll be posting some photos soon!
This route humbled me. Albiet, I am relatively inexperienced, with time, I can usually make it up most 5 10's.Not this one. What a blast however, the waves crashing below my feet the sun setting in the West and the solid rock beneath my aching fingers all made for a spectacular experience. Who knew such killer climbing was in our backyard. I went wit my Friend Paul who led the route and he made it up easily as I lazil belayed him from below. the first part was trickeier than I had anticpated and was perhaps what drained me of my stregnth to continue.
This is a classic California-postcard climb. The setting is phenomenal (just over the Pacific Ocean - literally) and the route is great as long as you stay off the area just past the right side arete (it's quite crumbly).
By Ben Logan From: Point Reyes Station, CA May 16, 2009
I first climbed this route in 2000. It's probably my favorite line at Mickey's Beach. However, having just climbed it again after some years away, I'm wondering if there isn't at least one hold missing near the fifth bolt on the crux bulge. The move passed the bulge seems more like a dynamic 11a move to me, and it does look like a piece of rock recently flaked off to the right of the fifth bolt. Any thoughts on this?
A note on the belay: It helps to have a 3.5" cam to establish an oppositional belay anchor to avoid being pulled off the belay boulder in the event of a lead fall.