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Mickey's Beach

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Center Bouldering Rock (or the Beach Boulder) 
Danger Rock (or Orange Buddha Rock) 
Egg, The 
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Peeper's Rock 
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Way of the Wah (AKA the cave) 

Mickey's Beach Rock Climbing 

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Location: 37.8886, -122.6327 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 62,104
Administrators: Aron Quiter, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Jun 18, 2002

63° | 51°

64° | 51°

68° | 52°

64° | 51°

63° | 51°
Memorial Day

63° | 51°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Doug Engelkirk on the once infamous Mickey's Beach...


Mickey's Beach offers some of the toughest sport climbing in the area, along with some interesting bouldering. Almost all climbs are on the beach, and some are tide dependant. The area can be quite windy, making some of the balancy moves more interesting. Climbs offered range from beginning to expert.

The whole area is free.

A brief bit of history tells that the bouldering area west of the main rock was once a part of the hillside, and in a huge storm in 1986 it fell into the surf as one large chunk. Seven days later, the rock split into pieces, directly in front of an unsuspecting picnicing couple.

The main rock also had some storm trouble. In 1993 a huge storm knocked several classic climbs off the main rock and into the ocean, including a classic 5.12 finger crack known as Mickey's crack. A word of caution for people who travel to Mickey's beach, which is that it's a spot frequented by a rather large group of nudists, so if that bothers you, you should probably climb some place else.

Getting There 

From S.F. Take the 1 north. Follow the signs to Stinson Beach. Follow the road down the canyon, and then follow it down the beach. It's a ways, but the main parking lot is .3 miles north of the sign to the Steep Ravine campground and cabins. This sign is on the left side of the road.

From the east bay: Take 580 west to the 101 south, until it intersects with the 1, then follow the above directions.

Climbing Season

Weather station 3.6 miles from here

53 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',13],['3 Stars',24],['2 Stars',16],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Mickey's Beach

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Mickey's Beach:
Diagnol Ramp   V1 5     Boulder, 10'   Danger Rock (or Orange Budd...
Unnamed Sidepull   V4 6B     Boulder, 8'   Danger Rock (or Orange Budd...
Grace Face   V5 6C     Boulder   Danger Rock (or Orange Budd...
Orange Pleasure (right finish)    V5 6C     Boulder, 10'   Danger Rock (or Orange Budd...
Don't Worry be Slappy   V6 7A     Boulder   Danger Rock (or Orange Budd...
Little Wing   V7 7A+     Boulder, 15'   Stinson Beach : Are You Experienced Boulder
Orange Buddha Arete   V7-8 7B     Boulder   Danger Rock (or Orange Budd...
Green Eggs and Ham   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   The Egg
Rust Never Sleeps   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   Grey Slab
Coffee and Cigarettes   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   The Egg
Corner Route   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   Main Rock
Walkin' a Thin Line   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   Main Rock
Sign Language   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 70'   The Egg
Egghead   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R     Sport, 60'   The Egg
Courtney   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Main Rock
Hot Tuna   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   Main Rock
Sex Porpoises   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Main Rock
Wet Dreams   5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Main Rock
Naked and Disfigured   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   Main Rock
Gidget (Meets the Turgid Seamonster)   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Main Rock
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Mickey's Beach

Featured Route For Mickey's Beach
Rock Climbing Photo: Kiernan (Kiki) Tong with the key short-guy beta.

Kiki's Big Adventure V6 7A  CA : San Francisco Bay Area : ... : Danger Rock (or Orange Budd...
Start low on Diagonal Ramp, traverse left into Grace Face and finish it out....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Mickey's Beach Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Peter Mayfield on Plato Shrimp, which also no long...
Peter Mayfield on Plato Shrimp, which also no long...
Rock Climbing Photo: The big bouldering rock fell apart.  The V9 is no ...
BETA PHOTO: The big bouldering rock fell apart. The V9 is no ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Way of the Wah
Way of the Wah
Rock Climbing Photo: Sulli on a fun Mickey's Beach traverse photo: Tell...
Sulli on a fun Mickey's Beach traverse photo: Tell...
Rock Climbing Photo: Bouldering at Mickey's Beach, photo: Bob Horan Col...
Bouldering at Mickey's Beach, photo: Bob Horan Col...
Rock Climbing Photo: Endless Bummer Rock, south of Mickey's Beach. Home...
Endless Bummer Rock, south of Mickey's Beach. Home...
Rock Climbing Photo: Bouldering at Mickeys.
Bouldering at Mickeys.
Rock Climbing Photo: Stinson Beach
Stinson Beach

Comments on Mickey's Beach Add Comment
Show which comments
By Aron Quiter
From: Oakland, CA
Jun 22, 2003
Currently, highway 1 from San Francisco is closed to traffic going to Mickey's Beach fromthe South. To get here, instead of following the 1, follow the detour that heads toStinson Beach, and once you get to the fork where the detour hits the 1, hang a LEFT andthe Mickey's Beach pullout will be about .7 miles on your right.Heading a right at thefork will lead you into the touristy beach town of Stinson Beach, where there is food andsupplies.
By Aron Quiter
From: Oakland, CA
Sep 25, 2003
No more construction, but you might want to keep note, since there probably will be again at some point, since California is, after all, falling into the Ocean.
By Adam Block
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 5, 2008
I was pretty sad to find this spot on accident and not have any gear. I was just driving down one and decided to take a walk. I did spend a little time sizing things up and I have to say, it's an amazing spot to get some climbing in. Being from AZ I'm putting a lot of weight on the water being right there but even the routes look great. I can't wait to get back that way and get on the rocks...

As a warning, the areas seems like a very safe place to park and leave your car however when we got back to the car ours and another had broken windows. It was daylight (5pm) and there was a cop sitting within eyesight (close enough we just walked over to tell him). I guess it's pretty common there so take what you can, put everything else in the trunk or well out of eyesight...
By Michaeld916
From: Sacramento, CA
Sep 23, 2013
Surfin Safari - 13d/14a
Endless Bummer 13b

I found the rock on google maps at the following location:

37.877671, -122.618599

Copy and paste those coordinates into google maps and zoom in. You should see a shadow, that's the rock. You can see a faint trail, and it was faint when I was there last year.

I had just got an email asking where it was, and I might as well spread the beta!
By natfjones
Jun 27, 2014
Does anyone know whether dogs are allowed at Mickey's?
By John Groh
Aug 18, 2014
It doesn't seem to be listed on MP or in the Bay Area Rock guide, but there's a super fun sidepull compression problem just around the corner from Grace Face on the uphill side of the rock. It felt V4ish. Here's a picture of the problem if you're trying to find it:
Rock Climbing Photo: not sure what this problem is called
not sure what this problem is called

I'd be curious to know the name if anyone knows.
By Darren Carter
From: Berkeley, CA
Apr 20, 2015
@John - I was curious about that one too. Agree on the V4'ish rating. I enjoyed it quite a bit.
By desbien
From: seattle,wa
Mar 31, 2016
The law came down on me, no dogs at Mickey's.
By AJG519
Apr 18, 2016
Lost 3 BD quickdraws at the base of the Main Rock on Saturday, 4/16/16. Please message me if you've found them. Much appreciated!
By John Groh
Apr 18, 2016
The entire Orange Buddha rock has moved. Shifting sand in high tide or something maybe. But a lot of the climbs are affected - some at smaller angles, others with now inaccessible starts.

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