Goat Rock State Park

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This is a pretty Sweet 5.9

Description 

Sitting above and on the ocean, Goat Rock is a great place for boudlering and top roping. There are a few trad routes, but it's not a place you should head if your entire day is planned around being a trad monkey.

This is a gorgeous place, and all bay area climbers should make their way out to Goat Rock State Park at least once. The routes are quite varied in difficulty, from 5.2 to V10, as are the styles of climbing.

The rock, as most other bay area locations is a random assortment of beautiful rock, blues, reds, greens, whites and black. There will more information on the geology of the area as time allows.

Climbing is free, as are the waves.

The bouldering routes are all walk offs, and most of the climbing routes you will need to lower off.

The only downside of the existing routes in some poeple's minds could be that you've got to climb an exposed 5.2 30' to get to the top of the rock!

Getting There 

From the South:

To access Goat Rock State Park, take the 101 to Petaluma, where you should take the East Washington street exit. Head over the freeway and through town. This will turn into Bodega Avenue after a little while. Continue on Bodega Avenue for 26 miles to the coast, where it will become highway 1. Go north through the town of Bodega Bay along the coast. After approximately 9 miles, you will see the sign and eventual left turn to Goat Rock State Park.

Featured Route For Goat Rock State Park

Pelican Arete 5.10a  CA : SF Bay Area : ... : Sunset Rock

Climb the interesting and sustained right arete, without using the left arete. Holds are more plentiful around the right side of the arete. Sustained and intersting, this is an excellent warmup route for more advanced climbers, and a difficult yet doable first 5.10. This route is often bouldered, though the crux is about 10' off the ground, so place your crashpad carefully!...[more]