BETA PHOTO: The rocks at Sunset taken from the path down to th...
Description
This rock is mostly top roping, though at a "mere" 30 feet, many people choose to boulder a lot of the routes as well.
Being out in the open, this rock will always be in the sun on one side or the other. It's out in the open, so this is a great place to climb on a sunny day. On a foggy, windy day, there is very little protection from the elements, and this would be a very chilly place to be.
Most routes are probably best lowered off, though brave souls will need to downclimb a 5.2 route to get off of the rock.
Pelican Arete (5.10a) is a must do, and is a pretty tough 5.10a!
Getting There
Approach time: 5 minutes.
From the turnoff into Gaot Rock State Park, drive ~ 1/4 mile to a large pullout on the left. There are several of these pullouts, and almost all will get you to the rocks. If the road goes up the hill and bends to the right, you've gone a little too far, and should turn around.
From the parking pullout, hike downhill into the meadow, where the rocks are a can't miss.
Climb the interesting and sustained right arete, without using the left arete. Holds are more plentiful around the right side of the arete. Sustained and intersting, this is an excellent warmup route for more advanced climbers, and a difficult yet doable first 5.10. This route is often bouldered, though the crux is about 10' off the ground, so place your crashpad carefully!...[more]
Goat Rock is a great place to visit. Beautiful setting with quite a few good routes. Expect others as it's a great place to bring beginners because of easy access and small selection of easier routes. Beware that the Falcon Guide Rock Climbing the San Francisco Bay Area by Tresa Black seems to underrate many of the routes here. See my other comments for some of the routes. Because most of the routes are top roped, this doesn't pose a real danger but if bouldering or leading, expect the routes to be a grade or so harder than stated. If you have the time, it is definitely worth the trip to also visit Dry Creek Sea Crag. Another beautiful area with routes ranging from 5.6 and upward.
I really liked this area. Kind of a shame that it was the last place I visited on Labor Day weekend. I was pretty burnt out by the time I got there so I was not able to fully enjoy the climbing. I will say this, great view even if you are not going to climb.
Sunset Rock
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