Sitting above and on the ocean, Goat Rock is a great place for boudlering and top roping. There are a few trad routes, but it's not a place you should head if your entire day is planned around being a trad monkey.
This is a gorgeous place, and all bay area climbers should make their way out to Goat Rock State Park at least once. The routes are quite varied in difficulty, from 5.2 to V10, as are the styles of climbing.
The rock, as most other bay area locations is a random assortment of beautiful rock, blues, reds, greens, whites and black. There will more information on the geology of the area as time allows.
Climbing is free, as are the waves.
The bouldering routes are all walk offs, and most of the climbing routes you will need to lower off.
The only downside of the existing routes in some poeple's minds could be that you've got to climb an exposed 5.2 30' to get to the top of the rock!
Getting There
From the South:
To access Goat Rock State Park, take the 101 to Petaluma, where you should take the East Washington street exit. Head over the freeway and through town. This will turn into Bodega Avenue after a little while. Continue on Bodega Avenue for 26 miles to the coast, where it will become highway 1. Go north through the town of Bodega Bay along the coast. After approximately 9 miles, you will see the sign and eventual left turn to Goat Rock State Park.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Goat Rock State Beach:
This climb is on the back side of the left most rock as you approach Sunset Boulders. You start on the left side and traverse right. Great endurance problem....[more]Browse More Classics in CA
Don't leave climbing gear in the car (or at least in sight). Had a friend lose several thousand dollars of gear from car break-in while they were out bouldering for a couple of hours in mid day.
just came from the area. was there the last two days and was mostly fogged in... beautiful when the sun did poke through.. will be back in sunnier days later in the summer/early fall