Here is David Caunt on the FA of this fine route i...
Description
Located in the middle of the south side, this route is nearly always in the shade.
This interesting climb isn't too much about power, just keeping yourself balanced on a route with minimal footholds. There's a 5.11 move in the bottom near the first bolt that involves a smear move, and then sustained 5.11 lieback from the second bolt to the top, getting tougher as you move up. The crux is getting yourself to the top anchors, as the feet are non-existant in this section.
For an added burn, link this up with hocus.
Protection
3 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. On lead, you can protect the section after the first bolt with a large (2 1/2" - 4") friend.
Bring short slings (3') for a top rope. The top of this route can be accessed without climbing it by moving across the slab below the large honeycomb structure.
I took many lead falls trying to get this route, watch your shins! I didn't think it was run out too much. #9 metolius I believe,or a big hex to protect the mungy middle of the climb. There were a couple of pockets in/near the crux that offer decent holds. I got to the anchors but never redpointed. Oh yeah, that was 8-9 years ago. I live in boulder now and still think of this route.
Excellent climb. Like the previous poster, Ive fallen more times on this than I care to remember. Blue camalot protects the step across - but probrably not needed. Bolt placement makes it not at all scary, but uber frustrating to keep slowly coming off the moves. Fun climb to work and very subtle changes reap huge rewards. Ive give it a "relative" great....great for the area
Indian Rock - Castle Rock
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