This long scrunchy boulder holds but one problem: The Bates Arete problem (V4).
Sandstone, in the shade of the trees and Castle Rock Proper.
Walk off the top.
Getting There
Approach time: From the Parking lot: 5 - 15 minutes, depending on your pace. From Castle Rock proper: 10 seconds.
From the Castle Rock parking lot, head uphill on the leftmost walking path 0.3 miles to Castle Rock proper. The walk wanders a bit, but the path is signed the whole way, so it's hard to miss. Once at Castle Rock proper (the big one, you can't miss it), walk around the right side of the rock to the smaller boulders slightly downhill ad left of the trail. This is the first boulder the trail will take you to if you walk downhill to the lower side of the rocks. The front face of The Spoon is just left of the trail about 5 feet, and the Bates Arete Boulder is about 60 feet further than the spoon across the gradient.
The Bates Arete is one of the best problems of its grade in The Bay Area. Starting low on the right side of the rock, and about 25 feet long, first traversing up a steep overhang complete with large jugs and slopers leaving the desire for a good rest.The climb turns the corner from a good traverse into an uphill battle along a long solid arete where landings are bad. A final mantle, and the problem is yours. ...[more]
There are actually 2 other problems, 1) a variant off the main arete problem, and 2) a SDS problem on the adjacent boulder starting low down. Bit contrived, but interesting.
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