David Caunt on the first ascent of "Drug Lord" (5....
Description
This is located on the leftside arete as you climb uphill from the large cave that sits on the southwest face of The Underworld. Climb up the arete finding a 5.10 face move after the third bolt. Before this bolt and after this move the climbing is considerably simpler. For a direct start, begin around the corner on the left using a single bolt on the leftside face to the arete, which sits about 12 feet off the ground on this side. An excellent scary traverse move will bring you over to the arete and the third bolt of the arete.
Protection
5 bolts to the shared top anchors on the top of The Underworld. The direct start is 4 bolts to the top, and it is a good idea to clip the second bolt as a directional is you're going to do the direct start.
Direct Start (Left Side of Arete) is rated 5.11A. If you keep climbing left side of the 1st bolt of the direct start using flakes, I felt rating is not hard (maybe 5.10). I also went up from the right side of the 1st bolt directly going up the arete using slopers. This move is more fun and a bit scary, and maybe 11A (but not so hard once you know the move). Which every you choose to go, you almost feel like skipping the 2nd bolt (which is the 3d bolt of the 10C start).
Underworld, The
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