The Great Roof is the extremely odvious roof hanging atop Goat Rock. The climb beneath the roof is easy (5.8), yet complicated by the fact that you have a top rope on - you can't go under the rock! Once you're in the large cave, you traverse out the left side, then up towards your toprope anchors.
Protection
Hike all the way up around to the back of Goat Rock. There are some rappel bolts on top, from which you rappel down to the proper top rope bolts. The route is overhung enough that you will swing a lot if you fall, but no worries, there's nothing back there.
I remember leading this route many years ago, but maybe I'm thinking of the wrong route. Isn't there a piton or two under the roof? Can this be led safely, and if so what gear would be needed?
This is a really sweet climb! The area under the roof is essentially a mini-cave, and a great place to get imaginative with foot and hand positioning and think outside the box to get over the roof. If you take a fall the swing out is super fun, but the angle the rope holds you at makes it difficult to get back under the roof. So, if you come off the rock try to grab a hold on your first swing in, otherwise you will most likely have to be lowered back down to the top of the 5.9 section. When I did this climb the sun had already set, making it very difficult to see any of the holds under the roof. There are some pretty bomber holds to be found if you reach up and around to them however. I definitely recommend this climb if you're going to the Skyline Blvd/ Castle Rock area.
There's a 5.12 crack to the left, and you can use one of its bolts to protect yourself right before the crux of The Great Roof. So I guess you're memory was right, George.
By Aron Quiter Administrator From: Berkeley, CA Oct 13, 2003 rating: 5.10b
The 5.10b part CANNOT be lead safely. Unless you like falling 15 feet and crashing headfirst into the face below. There are at least a dozen bolts in the cave, but the only bolts that lead out of it head up the 5.12 crack to the left.
I did lead this one in the 90's... pretty committing give the bolts are probably 20+ years old. Don't do it unless you are confident for the grade. I saw a guy fall onto the second to last bolt and it held.. but htat was 20 years ago!
Goat Rock
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