Mike Arechiga below the crux of "Clamydia" (5.11d)...
Description
This is a superb route requiring strong fingers, strong arms, and good balance and technique. The climb is found just right of the 5.7 Lieback corner route about in the middle of the cliff. The "clams" is an obvious rock formation about 35' up. Getting to the first bolt and past, to rest on ramp, is steep and fingery. Moving from the second to third bolt is a very difficult short traverse left to right on tiny holds. Moving up to the "clams" is a stumper! Moving past the "clams" requires ingenuity and strength. The remainder of the climb is easier slab climbing. Leading this route is quite a bit harder than on a TR as it's difficult enough moving hands from one hold to another let alone trying to clip the bolt and then clip the rope! An excellent test piece!
Protection
Six bolts to two bolt anchor. Difficult clips but otherwise relatively safe.
I probably should not have been the one to add this route as I completed the route on TR only and hung many times. But this route is so great that I just had to add it! I'll be back to give this a good go once I lose 10 lbs and gain twice the strength!
Had a wonderful day today and met three great guys! Thanks Neon, Hank, and Cassie(sp?), for lending Sallie a boot, letting me have a fun jump on your rope on this route, and for your company! We certainly hope that we meet up with you again. I sure would enjoy that! After looking at the Rock Climber's Guide To Sykline Boulevard, I see that there are tons of areas to be explored. Are you guys familiar with the many other areas? I will try and post my contact info in the Looking for Partners area of this site (if I can find it). Please email or call if you would like to plan an outing!
I normally do not write comments until I send the route, but since it will take time for me to send this route, I adding my comments. I enjoyed trying this route with Paul and Nhon. To me this route is harder than a few 5.12a's I sent at Castle. I felt the crux move is about V5 and the grade may be 12a or harder. (Bruce Morris once told me that the hold broke in this route, so the route may be actually harder.) This route is also temperature-dependent, and the cooler the temperature is, the better you have a chance to send it. What's good about this route is that there are a series of difficult sections other than the real crux move, making this route very challenging.
Just browsing around and had a question about the start of Clamydia... As seen in these photos the ramp on the left was gained and from there a short traverse right is made to below the clams. Is this the actual start? (This ramp is another route which I forget the name but has a very hard crux section at the top.) Or does the original route start directly below the clams and climb the steep, thin, reachy face to eventually reach a stance at the start of the crux below the clams? This would make the route much more sustained with quite a few very hard face moves just to get to the crux. Anybody ever completed it this way? This starting face does seem to seep a bit and is often wet when the rest of the route is dry.
Yes, the original "Clamydia" goes straight up the steep face to the right of the ramp until it reaches the start of the crux. A little more ground fall potential this way.
Rating this route is weird. From an on-sight standpoint, it's .12a. If you know the beta, and it's a nice cool morning...I could see it being ..11d. Or less. Best sport climb at Castle, IMHO.
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