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Castle Rock Waterfall Cliff - Right side
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Putrefaction 

Putrefaction 

5.11a

   

FA: unknown
Type: Sport, TR
Length: 1 pitch, 70 feet
Views: 280 page views

Submitted By: jared toettcher on Aug 22, 2002


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Sallie, just after the first 10c section. Standin...


Description 

Most of this route is a 5.10c. The 11a crux involves coming out of the overhang immediately after the 4th bolt. It's a bouldery move; dropknee the right leg and go from the undercling under the roof to a pocket up to your left. If you're short & have iron tendons, go to the mono below the pocket. Don't worry; this move can be dodged by going left around the overhang if you're not up to it. Finishing the route to the anchors is a little run out, but really easy.


Protection 

4 bolts, 2 anchors on top.



Add Photo Photos of Putrefaction
Sallie, seeing the light, just after the second hard slab section.

Sallie, seeing the light, just after the second ha...

Sallie, just above the 11a bulge crux.

Sallie, just above the 11a bulge crux.

Climber completing the 5.10c slab crux before confronting the final 5.11a roof of "Putrefaction" (5.11a), Castle Rock Falls, CRSP, California

Climber completing the 5.10c slab crux before conf...

Clipping the bolt for the crux roof on "Putrefaction" (5.11a).

Clipping the bolt for the crux roof on "Putrefacti...

Over the roof on the final summit slab of "Putrefaction" (5.11a), Castle Rock Waterfall Cliff, CRSP, California

Over the roof on the final summit slab of "Putrefa...

Geoff huffing the crux.

Geoff huffing the crux.


Add Comment Comments on Putrefaction
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By Aron Quiter
Administrator
From: Berkeley, CA
Sep 5, 2002

The crux was a dyno for me, it seemed that a few more inches would've helped a little... Still a fun move though, and a great hip workout.

By Hank Sato
May 27, 2004

This is one of the hardest 11a I have ever climbed. The lower slab (10C?) section is very nices. The crux move is very boulderly. I did the undercling way. I think on-sighting this route may be difficult compared with other standard 5.11a's.

By Anonymous Coward
Aug 19, 2004

Is there still a bolt route right below the observation tower? used to be 10a getting to the first bolt, then 8 after that. 5 bolts? 100feet. I heard rumor that there is a new bolt at the top.(#6) At the top, tip toe up ramp to the left. I tried to mantle straight over and took a big fall(before the bolt was there) Oops. wear a helmet if you think you might come off.

By Paul Rezucha
From: Alameda
Sep 29, 2004

This is a great route! Although many say it's a one move wonder I tend to disagree. The slab climbing up the face is rated 10c and I believe has two sections of 10c. Soloing up to the first bolt is not hard, maybe 5.9, with the last move to the bolt being the diciest. The moves past the bulge are well protected with a bolt. I think there are two hard moves here. The first is reaching the small 2-3 finger hole and the second is getting your feet over the lip. At first the reach seemed impossible. After thinking it out, I laybacked off the large left facing edge, moved feet up high on face below and was able to pull up and reach with left hand to the hole. It was a struggle to get my feet up as there is nothing but smooth wall to friction up. I really enjoyed this route. 11a is probably correct but it is a hard crux!