BETA PHOTO: Montage taken from base of Goat Rock by Morgan Bro...
Description
A fairly indistinct route, which partially explains the range of ratings from 5.4-5.7. The entire lower 30 feet of the route is deeply incut, vertical to slightly-overhanging sandstone. The route then reaches a "third class ledge" (ref: Morris's guidebook). Leaders will go left, up the "fourth class gully", tying off handles as in the lower section. On toprope, the recommended, and more challenging line, ascends an obvious arete to the right, directly to the enormous knob which serves as the anchor for the route. This variation is unprotected, though a single bolt would suffice to make it a dandy leader route.
Protection
If leading, you can ascend the lower section, and up the 4th class face to the left totally with natural pro, by tying off to the buckethandle holds. One of the things that makes this a really fun route.
An enormous knob, accessible from the backside of the rock, is the usual anchor for this route. A 40-50' piece of webbing is required to sling the knob and run over the lip of the rock.
There are at least 4 to 5 spots where you can garth hitch handles, which is a fun experience by itself.
I saw two brand new 3/4 inc bolts but the hangers are gone. You can argue that you don't need these bolts with all the natural pro. Never the less, I don't understand why anyone would take the hangers. One bolt is over towards the 5.6 arete finish and would add extra element of protection to that variation.