The only bolted climb on The Globule that faces Indian Rock. The roof is very odd and requires a little resourcefulness, but is still no harder than an .11a once you figure out what you're doing.The rest of the climb takes advantage of the large heucos up the face above.
Protection
3 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.Stick clip the first bolt, as the crux is getting to the bolt, clipping it and pulling the roof at the first bolt.There is also ground fall potential at the second bolt, but the climbing is pretty easy to it compared to below.
By Aron Quiter Administrator From: Berkeley, CA Jul 8, 2002
I really enjoyed this climb, and I agree with Brian about stick clipping. I don't like stick clipping, but this clip involved an interesting move that had my butt above my head. Had I popped off, I would've landed on my head from 8 feet up. In my experience, that's not real fun. If you're 7' 2", that's not a problem for you, as you can probably just reach the bolt.
I agree with Hank. The first move is a little burly, but pretty doable once you figure out what to do. I'd probably still stick clip it since you heel hook at that bolt. The thin face at the top is the real crux for me. What I wonder is if people are going left to the arete near the top (which was the only way I could finish it) or are they going straight up and a little right of the peak of this climb? I don't know if it was from fruitlessly yarding on the crux move Donkey Dong, but I just couldn't pull the straight-up version.
Maybe I'm in better shape, but I finally led and sent this route fairly easily. This route has several moves/features you aren't going to find many other places. A classic in my book.
For TR setups: One anchor bolt spins and we set a backup by slinging a chockstone with a cordellette 10' back from it.
Globule, The
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