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Indian Rock - Castle Rock
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Donkey Dong 
Face, Indian Rock Castle Rock 
High On Testosterone 
Hocus 
Krokus 
Puckered Starfish 
Viscious Circles 

Donkey Dong 

5.12a

   

FA: David Caunt
Type: Sport, TR
Length: 1 pitch, 30 feet
Views: 580 page views

Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Jul 7, 2002


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The last move of Donkey Dong. Perhaps my greatest...


Description 

Climb the arete on the right side of the South face, working mostly around the corner in the tall narrow pocket. The climb consists of a large juggy haul up an overhung section of the rock, with a fun reachy finish at the top.

For the 12a finish, work up and well left from the fourth bolt, and it's 11c if you continue up the arete.

Be mindful that even though you've climbed the first 10 feet of the climb, there is stall groundfall (or slabfall, I guess) after the first bolt.


Protection 

5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. The anchor is not on the top of the climb, but over the bulge.



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BETA PHOTO: beta photo

Around the corner, which comprises most of the climbing on donkey dong.

BETA PHOTO: Around the corner, which comprises most of the cli...

Brian starts the crux in the dark at the top of Donkey Dong. Photo copyright 2002 Melissa Moore.

Brian starts the crux in the dark at the top of Do...


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By Brian Quiter
Jul 9, 2002

If you plan on doing the 12a finish, i would suggest clearing the moss first, because right now its really mossy.

By Anonymous Coward
Sep 11, 2002

I did 11C version. Unlike other Castle Rock routes which are full of slopers, the 11C version is full of big holds! (except for the 2 holds before reaching the finalhold). This reminds me of limestone cliffs back in Japan.The grade may be easy till the last crux move. So, go for it!

By Blitzo
Sep 12, 2006

I couldn't pull it, but it looks cool!