Bouldering bouldering bouldering. This is what Castle rock is "famous" for anyways right? Grab and hang onto as many sandstone holds, slopers, jugs, buckets, and little things as you can!
The Magoos are classic bouldering, offering a variety of problems from 5.1 to Vreally really hard. You will see people working on problems in all ranges as well on a weekend, and you may be the only person there on a weekday.
There are no access issues to climb in Castle Rock, unless you don't like people coming to the area that are not climbers watching you in amazement.
Some routes are in the sun, but most are usually in the shade.
Getting There
Approach time: 5 - 15 minutes.
From the main Castle Rock parking lot, head up to castle Rock proper. This involves taking the paths to the left out of the parking lot, which are all marked as going to Castle Rock.
Walk up the path hanging a right (uphill) at the junction with the service road, and just short of Castle Rock itself you will see a group of boulders on your left 50 yards from the rock.
Ascend the face to the left of Mr. Magoo on the Magoo Rock via two incredible small finger holds. The ascent can be made harder via an sit down start (sds) first down by Chris Scharma five years ago that is rated V10....[more]
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